Classic French cooking arrives upstairs at The Princess of Shoreditch, with excellent starters, a beautifully tender veal chop and rotisserie chicken that proves anything but a safe option. Desserts need more attention, but the savoury courses give this new residency plenty to recommend it.

The Ambience

Upstairs, The Princess of Shoreditch has acquired a French accent. While the ground floor Bistro still feels distinctly London, with a short blackboard menu for those after a drink and something more casual, Noble Inns’ second Bistro Sablé has taken up residence, bringing a menu of traditional French favourites to the pub’s first-floor dining room.

Accessed by its signature spiral staircase, the 32-seat restaurant takes its cues from Parisian bistros, with oversized posters sourced from flea markets, understated wooden furniture and warm lighting. The proposition is a full dinner built around familiar pleasures: onion soup, beef tartare, cassoulet and rotisserie chicken. We settle in to see how well those classics translate.

The Food

Bread and butter make a slightly disappointing first impression: the bread seems past its best and the butter is too cold to spread easily. Both are quickly dealt with, however, and the starters soon put the meal on a much firmer footing. The French onion soup is beautifully beefy, topped by thick discs of crouton and Gruyère that add substance to its deeply savoury broth. Having mentioned that we want to share, we are brought two separate portions, a thoughtful gesture, and much appreciated. Beef tartare is equally successful. The yolk lends a velvety richness to the meat, while capers cut through with bright, briny bursts. Crisp potato sticks bring crunch and contrast; we enlist some bread as well. It’s a classic combination handled very well.

For mains, the veal chop with Roquefort sauce is an unapologetically indulgent choice. The meat is impossibly tender, with a lovely char, while the sauce brings a gentle blue-cheese funk and moreish saltiness. It complements the veal without taking over the plate, and we finish this all too quickly. 

The sleeper hit is the rotisserie chicken with vin jaune and mushrooms. Sometimes, chicken can be easy to overlook on a restaurant menu. This one deserves our full attention. A generous half-bird arrives with shatteringly crisp skin, accompanied by a sauce that is the highlight of the evening. Golden, creamy and deeply earthy, it combines the savoury depth of wild mushrooms with a slight tang from the wine. There is sunshine in every mouthful, and enough opulence to make us want to gather up every last trace. It is one of the best things we have eaten all month. The accompaying frites never arrive, but the portions are large enough that we don’t chase them. A mixed-leaf salad provides a welcome lift amid the heavier items to nicely round the dishes. 

The Desserts

Puddings do not quite match the standard of what precedes them. The chocolate mousse is tasty and dependable, a solid rendition of the classic. The profiteroles are less successful, though. Served cold, they are disappointingly hard, missing the lightness that makes choux pastry such a pleasure. After the confidence of the starters and mains, it feels like a missed opportunity.

The Verdict

Bistro Sablé’s strongest dishes deliver exactly what you want from a French bistro: depth, generosity and the satisfaction of familiar food cooked with care. The divided soup portions are a welcome example of thoughtful hospitality, while both mains make a compelling case for a return visit.

There are details to tighten up, particularly the bread and profiteroles, but they do not erase the considerable pleasure of the savoury courses. The residency runs until the end of the year. Order the veal, be comforted by the soups and, whatever you do, don’t miss the chicken.