Nine of London’s most inventive things on toast this autumn

As the temperature drops, few things are more comforting than something hot, savoury and liberally piled onto toast. Across London, chefs are taking the familiar formula beyond beans and Cheddar, topping bread with everything from whipped pork fat and spicy nduja to bottarga and heirloom carrots.

Ornella, Hackney

At Milanese-inspired neighbourhood restaurant Ornella, chef Naz Hassan serves tajarin al brodo di cipolla: delicate strands of handmade tagliolini in a rich Roscoff onion broth. The pasta is accompanied by crisp fontina cheese toast, designed to be submerged directly into the golden soup. The result is deeply savoury, comforting and rooted in the cooking of Milan, where Hassan grew up.

Dockley Road, Bermondsey

Dockley Road tops golden toast with Calabrian Black Pig nduja, creamy ricotta and honey, balancing chilli heat with salty, sweet and cooling flavours. The nduja comes from neighbouring Spa Terminus butcher Farmer Tom Jones, reflecting the restaurant’s focus on seasonal produce sourced close to home. Order it as a small plate before dinner or alongside something from the Eastern European-led wine list.

Labombe by Trivet, Borough

Labombe by Trivet’s signature bottarga toast brings together the comforting crunch and richness of a cheese toastie with the concentrated salinity of mullet roe. Master Sommelier Philipp Reinstaller recommends pairing the European-style snack with a glass of Pierre Moncuit Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Champagne.

The Camberwell Arms, Camberwell

The Camberwell Arms serves two signature toast dishes throughout the year. Its whipped pork fat is spiked with Scotch bonnet chilli and spread generously over homemade focaccia, while beer-infused onions are piled onto crusty toast and finished with melting Comté. Both can be ordered as a starter or bar snack, ideally accompanied by a glass of wine.

Bar Blondie, Queen’s Park

At Bar Blondie, the seasonally changing crostini is currently topped with boquerones, green tomato and smoked ricotta. It makes an excellent opening snack before moving on to the restaurant’s fresh pasta, sharing plates and grilled dishes, or can simply be paired with a glass from sommelier Alex Price’s 200-bin wine list.

St. JOHN, Smithfield

St. JOHN’s Welsh rarebit remains one of London’s definitive things on toast. Strong Cheddar is mixed with Guinness, mustard powder and Worcestershire sauce, then grilled until bubbling and deeply browned. A final dash of Worcestershire sauce follows before serving. Enjoy it at the end of dinner with a glass of port, or whenever the need for a particularly steadying snack arises.

FINK’S at Clissold House, Stoke Newington

FINK’S at Clissold House offers a lighter seasonal option with roasted heirloom carrots and hummus on sourdough toast. Available as part of the café’s extended Friday-to-Sunday menu, it is particularly well suited to a post-park lunch with a cup of Scenery coffee.

Café Deco, Bloomsbury

Café Deco’s frequently changing menu is guided by produce from local farms and independent suppliers. This season, that means cheesy leeks on toast. The simple but satisfying dish can be ordered as a first course or enjoyed at the bar with a glass of white wine.

Dean Street Townhouse, Soho

Dean Street Townhouse has deconstructed the traditional Welsh rarebit, serving a bowl of rich melted cheese with crisp sourdough soldiers for dipping. Keen’s Cheddar is combined with ale, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and Parmesan for a punchy, intensely savoury result. A classic Buck Rarebit topped with an egg is also available.