Rating:
In a Word:
Intimate
Cuisine:
International
Appeals To:
Wine connoisseurs and foodies alike who believe that good food and wine go hand in hand.
Anyone seeking a more personal dining experience.
The Atmosphere:
Chorlton has no shortage of independent bars and restaurants, but not all of them have staying power. The Cellar Key has fast become a local favourite since opening less than a year ago, renowned for its vast wine menu, innovative dishes and regular foodie events. Not to mention the infamous wine vending machine. Intrigued, Tasting Britain decided to check it out.
Arriving just after dark, the candlelit tables, warm lighting and hum of diners chatting away created an ambience that instantly made you feel relaxed. Andy Leathley, the owner, gave us an enthusiastic welcome, and it was clear that he’d taken great pride in building The Cellar Key.
‘Bistro’ is a term that tends to get banded around these days, but this modestly sized restaurant had a personal touch throughout, from the photos on the walls of Andy’s vineyard adventures, to the individual wine pairings suggested for every course.
The Concept:
What truly makes The Cellar Key stand out is the concept behind it. Many restaurants focus primarily on food; with drinks as an afterthought. Here, it’s the other way round. Andy has explored the globe searching for the finest wines, and he individually scores each one to ensure that only the best make the cut for his menu.
As his wines come from all over the world, so does inspiration for the menu. You could say that the ‘international’ theme is playing it safe. However, this generic concept is incredibly clever – Andy and his team can suggest a wine (or beer, or port, or anything else for that matter…) to match your menu choice.
What’s also great about The Cellar Key is the emphasis on grazing. These small dishes are all beautifully presented, designed to be taken one at a time, as and when you fancy them. After all, the night is young when you have a cellar of 100+ wines to explore.
The Wine Vending Machine
If you’re popping in for a quick drink after work, looking to sample a selection of wines, or simply a sucker for gadgets and gizmos, you have to check out the wine vending machine [Ed: an enomatic machine which lets you pay by card? genius]. Load some credit onto your very own card, choose a wine and volume, and serve yourself one of the carefully selected wines in their machine.
With four whites and four reds, perfectly chilled at 8 and 13 degrees respectively, the selection is changed on a regular basis. Opt for a 125ml or 175ml glass, or if you prefer sampling lots of different wines (or you’re a lightweight), a sample of 25ml is available. What’s more, this clever machine remembers your selections, to save your favourites for your next visit.
Of course, you don’t have to use the wine vending machine; if you prefer wine served the old-fashioned way, that’s okay too. They even have a fine wine list, although to read it you’ll have to solve the puzzle box first!
The ‘Bar Snacks’
Argentinian Empanadas – £3.95
Let’s face it – whether you’re visiting for drinks or a full-blown meal, wine makes you peckish. We simply had to try one of the tempting bar snacks, and what could be more indulgent than an empanada? Having been to Argentina myself, I was eager to see if they lived up to the standards of South American street food. They did.
With a flaky, buttery crust and a succulent minced beef filling, these mini parcels of goodness were incredibly moreish. Served with a homemade salsa and a dollop of sour cream, we had to resist licking the board clean.
Janz Sparkling Rose, Australia – £5.00
Pastry and wine may not jump out as a good combination, but Andy suggested a sparkling rose to freshen the pallet. The red grapes complemented the beef, whilst the light bubbles cut through the buttery flavours nicely.
The ‘Small Plates’
Basque-Style Scallops – £8.00
Scallops are impressive whichever way you look at them, but the flavour combinations in this dish really stood out. Wrapped in bacon and seasoned with air-dried ham salt imported from France, the scallops were beautiful – especially when used to soak up the creamy shallot sauce.
Cornish Orchard Cider – £4.20
Cider and scallops you say? As the shallot sauce had a dash of cider, this refreshing drink really brought out the flavours. Cornish Orchard isn’t overly fizzy and lacks that strange aftertaste you get with some ciders. In fact, it’s more like drinking a homebrew made with apples fresh from the orchard – yum.
Homemade Thai Green Curry – £9.00
After exploring Europe, we decided to visit Asia. This Thai curry was everything we hoped for and more – a thick sauce with a rich depth of flavour, but at the same light incredibly light from the coconut and lemongrass within it. Filled with juicy chargrilled chicken and topped with a succulent king prawn, it showcased the talent of the kitchen team.
When The Cellar Key took over the restaurant that used to live here, they decided to keep the tandoori oven that had been left behind. As a result, both the chicken and the roti served to mop up the sauce had that irresistible smoky flavour. A vegetarian version is also available if you’re a non-meat eater!
Te Kairanga Reisling, Martinborough – £4.10
A strong, earthy, yet deliciously fruity Reisling stood up to the flavours in the curry, without overpowering them. With a sweetness that offset the spice, it was a memorable white wine that went well with the Asian cuisine.
Five-Spice Duck – £9.00
Sticking with the Asian theme, the five-spice duck was different again. Marinated for 24 hours, there was no need to grab the seasoning for this dish. Tender and pink, it was served elegantly on a bed of noodles, with a garment of pak choi and salsa on the side.
Kleine Zalze Shiraz, South Africa – £3.60
A light, fruity red was the perfect choice to lift this dish, offsetting the soy sauce whilst accompanying the red meat perfectly.
Cheese Course
What better way to round off a wine-fuelled evening than with a cheeseboard? A platter of cheeses, grapes, biscuits and chutneys was the perfect way to un-wine after our whirlwind tour of international cuisine. As well as sampling a selection of brie, stilton, wensleydale and asiago, we were presented with two delicious ports to accompany them.
The Verdict
The Cellar Key is a vibrant bistro that reflects the heart and soul of owner Andy. A truly personal experience, this independent restaurant offers its own take on fine wining and dining, to design your night around your tastes and occasion.
Whether you pop in for a drink and nibbles, a special occasion, or for one of the many foodie events they host throughout the year, this popular Chorlton restaurant offers something for everyone.
The Details
495 Barlow Moor Rd
Manchester M21 8AG
0161 881 1305