Rating
In a Word
Familiar
Appeals to
This is definitely for those who like the tradition of having a good ol’ roast on a Sunday, but are also looking for a twist on the classic meat and two veg.
Assado’s Sunday Roast
Following on from our visit last year, Assado invited Tasting Britain back to have a look at their Sunday roast menu – a new twist on the British classic. I won’t go through all of the details again as I think I’ll just end up repeating (or copy and pasting to be more accurate!) excerpts from the last review. However, if you missed the first visit to Assado, then do click on the following link: http://bit.ly/1JOcJcq
But getting back on topic, when we think about a Sunday roast what would we normally expect? So there are definitely a few important ones for me: good meat, good potatoes, good yorkshire puddings and good gravy – y’know, just to name a few, of course. And after a quick glance of the menu I can see that Assado have already passed the first round by offering all of my fundamentals (phew… a very audible sigh of relief).
So what is that makes Assado’s Sunday roast unique? I’m glad you asked. By infusing all of the classic Sunday favourites with their mix of Goan and Indian spices, Assado are providing a unique and refreshing twist on the British classic. With dishes like the Goan-spiced Yorkshire Pudding, they really are taking the Sunday roast in a new direction (we did enquire but Aunt Bessie, unfortunately, wasn’t available for comment on the Goan-spiced Yorkshire Pudding).
I think the idea itself is really fun and creative – and it’s nice to see a restaurant take an idea and offer their own interpretation of it rather than adhering to what it should be. Why not try something new for a change? Although it’s all well and good having a fantastic concept, but it has to live up to the expectations it sets as well. So, with that in mind, on with the nom! Does that rhyme?
The Food
The menu is kind of what I was expecting – a set prix fixe with a good selection: a choice of beef, pork, chicken and haddock, with all of the cuts coming with a mélange of winter vegetables and a Yorkshire pudding (God, I love Yorkshire puddings).
The main also comes with a soup of the day to start as well as a dessert – although with only one starter and two desserts, you’re pretty screwed if none of them take your fancy. But (and this is a big but… that’s right, Sir Mixalot) it only costs £16.75 for three courses… and I assure you I’m not lying (geddit?). This definitely isn’t something to shy away from, especially when you’re in central London.
Soup of the Day
While it’s no longer served in the tiny cup that made me feel like a giant, I certainly won’t hold that against it. A very hearty soup – just a lot of root vegetables and very wintery, which is nicely apt for the cold evening.
Assado de Porco (Roast Pork Loin)
The pork loin was delicious… that is all (drops the mic and walks away). It was well cooked, juicy, tender – and the Goan spices add so many contrasting flavours to the sauce that it’s hard to discern them, but I suppose curry flavours would suffice as a description? Regardless, it’s a great complement to the pork loin. The potatoes were sautéed instead of roasted, which isn’t a problem for me personally as they’re cooked with garlic and rosemary which gives them a lot of body. I was a bit concerned about the Yorkshire pudding at first as it looked as though it hadn’t risen properly – and everyone knows that a bad Yorkshire pudding is always a deal breaker. But as soon as you take the first bite you realise how light and fluffy it really is – and the spice, whilst subtle, gives it a nice kick.
Sirloin Steak
I didn’t have much of the steak as I didn’t really want to steal Jack’s main (as tempting as it was) – albeit what I did sample was perfectly cooked. I think Jack’s impersonation of the ermagherd girl was a pretty telling sign of the quality as well.
Vanilla & cardamom crème caramel
I ordered the vanilla & cardamom creme caramel which – while loving the idea – really didn’t float my boat I’m afraid. The flavour was overwhelmingly bitter (I get the impression that the chef probably burnt the caramel) and the cardmom didn’t help this either. The blueberries on the side were deliciously redundant – I couldn’t quite see the point of having them there aside from decoration (and the obligatory mint leaf, of course), but at least it made up for the failings in the burnt caramel.
Apple & pear crumble
Now this… THIS was a crumble. A crunchy (dare I say crumbly as well?) texture with a nice tartness from the apples and peaches – which actually sounds like a cockney euphemism when I read that sentence back. The tartness is a nice balance considering the crumble is quite rich (it is butter and sugar at the end of the day), and the nutmeg ice cream helps with this as well. I would order this again.
The Verdict
I must admit that I was, initially, slightly concerned about our visit to Assado – but only because I was so taken with the idea that I was almost setting my expectations too high. Thankfully, Cyrus and Assado didn’t disappoint.
Cyrus has yet again created a great concept and never ceases to deliver interesting (as well as deliciously satisfying) flavour pairings. With the exception of the creme caramel, the overall menu is fantastic, and with the prix fixe at an incredibly reasonable price of £16.75 for three courses (and for that area of London it really is reasonable) this is definitely something we would recommend.
The Details
Assado
157 Waterloo Road
Lambeth
SE1 8XA
0207 471 8730
http://www.assado.co.uk/