Tasting Britain heads down to SOURCE Battersea to see what Johan and Elsa De Jager have made of the site of the old Ransome’s Dock Restaurant. Verdict? Looks good to us!
Rating
Cuisine
Modern European
In A Word
Efficient
Appeals To
Nautically inclined gastro/design minimalists having a fun time just south of the river.
Farm to table enthusiasts who enjoy small restaurants with quickly changing menus, and relatively large wine selections
Anyone who wants to arrange events/party hard (bit not too hard) in a subterranean industrial space that used to store ice but now exists solely for the purpose of fun (oh yes)
Oh, the things you can see in Battersea…
I show up to SOURCE an hour early after having strolled around the area and taken about a million crap shots of the Peace Pagoda on my phone. Lovely Battersea. There seem to be a lot of South American people living around here. The surrounding area is quite pretty, quite literally just south of the river.
SOURCE lives inside Ransome’s Wharf (I assume ‘Ransome’ was a person of note). It’s adjacent to a dock full of boats – I’m ignorant about boats but what I can tell you is that most of them are probably British because they’re all flying the Union Jack (*useless nautical tangent ends abruptly*)
Stepping into the restaurant (and minding that first step…), you get the impression that the building has probably seen some industrial use in the not so distant past. Johan and Elsa De Jager took over the previous site of the Ransome’s Dock Restaurant – which I believe was there for about 21 years and only closed because the previous owners were getting a bit bored and wanted to go and read more books or something. The De Jagers renamed it SOURCE and here we are!
SOURCE can be found at the other end of Ransome’s Wharf – its sign proudly proclaiming its presence, yet partially obscured behind some trees that kinda look like olive trees but aren’t olive trees (I am bad at trees so this may be entirely wrong)
Your waiter is an awesome guy called Janos, and he is from Romania. I make the initial mistake of mistaking his accent for Italian, which makes me feel bad about myself for a while. Later, a serious conversation about him bringing me back some proper Tokaji from the homeland quickly ensues “but I can only bring you one bottle!”.
Come 7 and I believe happy hour ‘kicks in’ – I notice this when a very American woman (and who is presumably her boyfriend) comes in – proclaiming in a powerful voice “IS IT LIKE….2 OF THE SAME COCKTAILS?!” (I can’t remember the answer she ends up with but let’s assume yes)
At some point ever so slightly later, a man in a Superdry jacket (presumably not American) sits on the table opposite me and exposes an impressive/yet a little bit scary amount of bumcrack. Pls no.
The Atmosphere
We are placed in a semi secluded corner table which combines some anonymity with an excellent vantage point for people watching. This is not a huge venue by any means. This keeps things more intimate and probably prevents anyone feeling like just another face lost in a crowd. Also more Facetime with your friendly wait staff.
From where I sit in my secluded corner there is a ‘not sure if pleasing’ view of the docked ships – plus some new and slick looking apartments.
In terms of interior design – the aesthetic is brick, concrete and strong slatted wood. Which, to me, conveys a ‘no nonsense’ kinda atmosphere and perhaps hints at the building’s industrial past. As for ambient music they seem rather keen on ‘ol blue eyes’ and swing jazz played at the optimal volume – well done.
Wandering around at 6pm there are two couples, one solitary man drinking what looks like an Aperol Spritz and a bunch of guys who could be cast as the antagonists in an ‘Essex Boys’ style crime film. At least one of them is drinking some kind of whisky on the rocks.
I am told that I have arrived at an excellent time to trial the new wine menu – which has changed for summer. It’s also the ‘Summer of Riesling’ – and I can dig it, fuck yeah (more on that later)
The Atmosphere (In The Basement)
There is also what I can only describe as a ‘subterranean industrial party room’ downstairs (they simply call it ‘The Basement’). Which reminds me of a pop up art installation or the squat raves I have ‘toured’ with my friend’s speedcore band (yup)
For £250 you can rent it out for an evening, I believe. Down there you shall find a bar, antique gramophones (not sure if operable) a super old Gaggia (definitely operable) – curious prints, racks of long spent wine bottles, and sofas in strange places. It smells ‘dank’ in the old sense of the word. The walls are cracked and a little moist – the room was used as a warehouse for storing ice.
The only real catch here is that you have to enter via a concrete stairwell. Let’s be honest, this could be a serious problem if you have been here PARTYING HAADO (injuries, anyone?). Alternatively you could y’know…just drink responsibly – like a responsible person.
Speaking of drinking responsibly, back upstairs to the bar I go…
The Atmosphere (In The Bar…again)
Taking a look at said bar (which is basically built into the restaurant proper) it doesn’t boast the largest selection of boozes (particularly sad face for minimal whisky selection). However, the wine list looks ‘about right’ (note 2007 Barolo selection with peeling labels)
Today they’re running what looks like a skeleton crew of 3 chefs and 3 staff – but oh my lord they are efficient. This is one of the most ‘clockwork’ type operations i have seen in my entire ‘career’ to date. it is truly impressive
The toilets are downstairs and remind me a bit of the lower decks of a ship (accidentally on purpose?).
Their bottled water has a ‘cool story bro’. Turns out that the restaurant is located above one of the only natural water springs in the London. They give a portion of the profits from the sales of their water to the Magic Breakfasts charity – reinvesting the rest into the maintenance of their well and (7 stage) filtration system. Well done.
At 7:30pm things start to really pick up – seems like SOURCE has made quite a name for itself in the local area as there are a few people you can tell are regulars.
The Food And Drink
“Shut up about the backstory already and provide pictures of the food” – I hear you say. OK.
SOURCE’s MO? ‘Seasonal. Simple. Social’ – which they seem to be doing pretty well. I believe they’re going with the ‘farm to table’ approach – which means a small, selective and everchanging menu of seasonal and (very) locally sourced British / Modern European cuisine.
There is also a separate menu for cocktails and the temporary wine menu for ‘The Summer Of Riesling’
Artichoke Dip £7
Celeriac, Kale, Quinoa & Rocket Salad £6
Daphne’s Lamb £17
Seasonal Greens £3
Croissant Ice Cream, Hibiscus Jelly, Cranberries £4
The Verdict
On the whole, SOURCE is a friendly, somewhat intimate no nonsense kinda place with a limited but quickly changing food menu. This will keep things varied but limit selection for when you’re there – so maybe not best for picky eaters. Though the bar could do with a few more selections, there are lots of wonderful wines.
The Details
Ransomes Dock Restaurant,
35-37 Parkgate Rd,
London
SW11 4NP
http://www.sourcebattersea.com/
