Where did it all begin?
On my family dairy farm, we wanted to do something with the milk from my 80 cows and of course earn a living to secure our future in the countryside, we chose blue cheese, as there was no blue cheese being made in Ireland at the time so there was a gap in the market.
Was it daunting to produce blue cheese in a country that had no tradition for this kind?
Yes, indeed, most people knew nothing other than cheddar and indeed turned up their noses at blue cheese, we were swimming against the tide. We knew nothing about Cheesemaking, my experience at that point was in Agriculture and botany and I knew nothing about the science of food and production. It took us two years trial and error, mostly on the side of my wife, and the help of an old retired cheesemaker who had made cheese in the past. We made our first cheeses in the kitchen using my grandmothers copper jam preserving pan, and aged the wheels in a damp clay floor cellar under the house.
As a farmer, not a food marketeer, how did you set about bringing your cheese to the market?
Originally we only made 5 cheeses at a time and sold them in the local country markets, similar to the W.I. Locals gave us support by buying it, even though they didn’t always necessarily eat it! Slowly by word of mouth, it progressed to local hotels, restaurants and speciality shops. Irish travelling over the water to the UK to visit friends would bring a piece of our cheese as a present, eventually this resulted in trade enquiries. Neals Yard Dairy, based at the time in London’s Covent Garden, started taking a little bit as early as 1985, indeed they still buy today. I feel proud that we work to this day with some of our first customers.
What were the three biggest challenges to you starting out?
Trying to negotiate with a local scrap dealer to buy a small abandoned old copper vat abandoned in the corner of his yard.
Getting the blue into the blue cheese
Milking cows and trying to make cheese at the same time.
Today as an established speciality blue cheese are the cheeses different to those 30 years ago or do you see a pattern?
After 30 years you become philosophical but there remains a constant concern of maintaining quality and looking after your customers, irrespective of how big or small they are, we try to make time for everyone which can be a challenge!
On a personal level what personal sacrifices have you made to develop a sustainable speciality food business?
Developing our farmhouse cheese in conjunction with dairy farming has created pressures as both dairy farming and Cheesemaking require attention 365 days a year and considerable capital input. I have had to learn to delegate and take one cautious step at a time financially as ultimately I want to keep it in the family!
What do you think of the current trend of outsourcing production and focusing on marketing?
Coming from a farming background our natural instinct is to be a producer not a marketeer, which I think is how it should be for a genuine farmhouse cheese, marketing follows on and develops later.
Have you enjoyed the journey so far?
The journey so far has been technically stimulating, financially rewarding sometimes emotionally exhausting, socially fulfilling in providing local employment in a rural area to both neighbours and family who have back and added their own expertise.
As one the founders and creators of Cashel Blue how does it feel to see it grow?
It is great to see our Cashel Blue recognised as brand name internationally, remember I am a farmer not a marketeer, and locally I enjoy to see second generation employees and family members, I visit the office most days so I keep constantly in touch.
What was it like setting up a business with your wife?
It strengthens your family relationship.
What was your greatest professional moment so far?
Winning supreme awards when one was only actually trained as a plant man (Botanist)
Where did you get your ideas?
Formally having worked in agricultural research and both myself and my wife coming from artistic backgrounds, my problem is too many ideas!
What advice would you give to aspiring food entrepreneurs who want the similar results that you’ve had?
Be passionate about the product
Do some basic sums to see if the idea adds up
Be prepared to make some sacrifices
If you weren’t doing what you are doing now what would you be doing?
Oh there’s no doubt I would have come up with some other mad plan for the farm.
Where next for your business?
We are not in a rush as long as we are going forward! We are delighted to see a small but growing demand for our cheese among French cheese mongers, they really respect the authenticity of who we are and where the product comes from.
If you had to found a new country based around Cashel Blue’s principles, what would you call it, what would it’s capital be called and what would it’s chief export be?
The values behind Cashel Blue are: Community, Openness, Personability and Excellence…so I’d have to call it Verdant Island, due to its abundance of wild natural vegetation alongside traditional agriculture, it would be based in an oceanic temperate climate with lots of happy cows and Agri tourism with a strong connection between people and place. It would not be an overly centralised state and therefore the capital would not be that relevant, let’s call it Peak View. Principle exports would be based on primary local materials.
If you had to get into a no holes barred, 20 rounds fist fight with any fictional character who would you square off against?
I would side step the issue and keep going!
If you had to have any character from Greek mythology to come and work for Cashel Blue who would it be?
Possibly Vulcan if he could keep our equipment going!