Review: Salthouse Bacaro [Liverpool]

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If ‘Negroni Mondays’ aren’t a thing, after a visit to Salthouse, Charlie thinks they should be. 

Rating

star-rating-3.5

Cuisine

Spanish and Italian. The best of both in small plates form, with the odd twist here and there. 

In a Word

More (please)

Appeals to

Almost everyone – it may be a little ambitious for younger families, but little plates mean even the fussiest eater can try a little of everything. 

Ambience

Relaxed – busy, chatty, but staff are attentive without being overly so, are friendly, and knowledgeable, and no matter when you turn up, whether you’ve booked or not, if they can squeeze you in, they will. 

 

Food and Drink

Having learned my lesson in previous reviews when it comes to little plates (little pickers have bigger knickers dontcha know), I leant a little on both staff knowledge the knowledge of my date. 

Drink wise, the menu is select, but at the recommendation of my date, I hit the negroni selection. Negronis are for me, a bit of a staple. Sure given they’re simply a mix of three spirits (Campari, Gin, Vermouth) they can be heavy and booze, at Salthouse there are a few variations on the theme, so there are a couple of lighter, less bitter options.

Food wise, we nibbled on fresh bread and big fat green gordal olives while we deliberated. And it took some narrowing down – the selection covers everything from charcuterie and garlic breads, through to slow braised meats, pan roasted fish, and salads. It all depends on how hungry you are. 

Arancini and croquettas are two of the delicious options. I am a sucker for arancini, they are a must eat for me, and this slow cooked beef version was incredibly moreish (though given the presentation, I was glad we only had one, or it could have looked a little…. phallic). The croquettes too had that true buttery, creamy roux base, with properly crisp outer that is simply satisfying – and makes you consider ordering a few more. 

But we restrained ourselves. Sort of. 

Because there was the deliciously creamy buratta to sample, sitting ontop of avocado, and topped gently spicy chilli, everything combined to make the cheese taste that bit more cool, creamy and milky. 

Both my date and our server recommended the carpaccio and now I would too, with its contrasting parmesan crisps, and that oh so tender beef. 

But perhaps my favourite of our dishes, was the buttermilk chicken Milanese with macaroni and ndjua cheese sauce. I mean….

 

Tender buttermilk chicken, coated in breadcrumbs and fried til crisp, then topped with a rich, spicy, cheesy pasta. If someone wants to deliver some to me at any point, I won’t protest. 

Anyone…?

Of course we had room for dessert and that was a surprise to both of us. Pannacotta, with rhubarb and crumble topping. It was, to all intents a rhubarb crumble in flavour, and almost in texture. Light, creamy, properly vanilla-y pannacotta, crisp, lightly astringent rhubarb, properly crunchy, just how I like it crumble. Not too sweet, not too heavy, just right. And after all we’d eaten previously, just enough between us to fix that sweet craving without leaving us feeling like we were waddling away overly full. 

It was also, like everything else, rather pretty too. 

 

Verdict

 I knew it was going to be good, it’s reputation says so. And it’s another reason I need to visit Liverpool more often. 

The Details

Salthouse Bacaro
47 castle street, liverpool, L2 9UB
0151 665 0047
reservations@salthousebacaro.com
 
www.salthousebacaro.co.uk
twitter.com/Salthousebacaro
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