A former neighbourhood pub is enjoying a new lease of life as one of Islington’s most exciting restaurants…
The Ambience
The Tamil Prince is located on the site of former pub, The Cuckoo, at the corner of a picturesque street in residential Islington. The concept, launched by Prince Durairaj, former executive chef at Roti King, and general manager Glen Leeson, is all about showcasing the flavours of Durairaj’s home state Tamil Nadu.
A warm weekday evening means outdoor tables are heaving with those basking in the last of the summer sun, while the shaded indoors is just as busy. Behind the well-stocked bar, benches and tables are filled with people ordering sizzling plates and shining bowls filled to the brim with curries and dhals. A view into the kitchen from the back adds an immediacy to the cooking and it is thrilling to watch the team execute all the dishes with flair and precision.
The Food
Dishes are designed to share, with a variety of small and larger plates. From the small section, a portion of okra fries is the absolute perfect snack to enjoy with a cold beer. It arrives brilliantly crispy, the okra lightly latticed in a spiced batter that is highly addictive.
Chicken lollipops are similarly satisfying. Redolent with ginger, they are piping hot, crunchy and tender – even without the green chutney that comes to coat them in. A highlight is the Atlantic blue crab soup, which first thrums with tomato, then hits with pepper at the back of the throat, melting away into a smooth and aromatic bisque-like finish. It is complex and immensely comforting.
Large plates are generous; a half rack of giant lamb chops is blisteringly charred and tender. Meat melts away from the bone in soft chunks, smoky and seasoned with house rub. A trio of king prawns in garlic masala are similarly weighty, and dripping with juices that it is impossible not to slurp from messy fingers and mop up with flaky roti.
There is no room for dessert, but a return visit is promised to try both the gulab jamun and the homemade ice cream. Cocktails are courtesy of Simone Pugi (of Bar Termini) and there is a wide selection of Indian and British beers.
The Verdict
The Tamil Prince has been an instant hit in the city, and it is easy to see why. It provides an outpost for South Asian cuisine, from a region previously underrepresented in Islington and does it very well. As well as diversifying London’s desi-pub options, with its focus on south India, instead of the north, the food is an intriguing combination of familiarity and innovation. The accomplished take on known classics and the introduction of more experimental items, like pulled beef uthappam – a play on the traditionally vegetarian rice and lentil Tamil breakfast pancake – demonstrates a dynamic and fun approach to an already rich cuisine. It is one that is sure to lure people back to try the rest of the menu and to look out for new dishes introduced as the restaurant settles into a location that it will hopefully inhabit for a long time.
The Details
115 Hemingford Road, London N1 1BZ
thetamilprince.com