Popular Tel Aviv inspired street food comes to Covent Garden.
The Ambience
Seven Dials Market, another project by KERB, is buzzing with activity on a Sunday afternoon. The huge variety of food here makes this a great go-to destination for anyone looking for a meal on the move, or groups who all want something different. It was really entertaining to people-watch and soak in the thrum of action, as well as seeing hospitality operators thriving with trade.
The Food
Shuk, a concept from Richard Littman and Mark Jankel, aims to bring the Israeli flavours of the duo’s childhood to London. Meaning ‘street market’ in Hebrew, Shuk is already trading from a successful outpost in Borough Market and this second site is more of the freshly prepared salads, pitta sandwiches and meats which has made it so popular. A starter of falafel comes piping hot. The crispy outer shell crumbles away into a moist, feathery interior, lifted by a tomato-based sauce. Schnitzel has run out for the day but the market platters are huge so this is just as well!
The beef brisket platter comes with hummus, tahini, pickled red onion, parsley, green chilli, a small – but bold – herb salad and steamed pita. Steaming the pitta gives it a spongey texture which works wonderfully to scoop the tender brisket. While the green chilli is undetectable and the meat could do with more depth, perhaps in the seasoning, the hummus and pickled onions balance it nicely when eaten together. A vegetarian version of this platter is also available, served with falafel instead of beef.
The chicken shawarma platter is also served with hummus, steamed pitta and salad but varies with the addition of garlic toum, sauerkraut and harissa oil. Pre-roasting gives the meat a satisfying crispy texture and the rich aroma from the harrisa comes through. The chicken is elegantly spiced and sprinkled with sumac, complemented perfectly by the fluffy toum. Accompanying dressed baby gem, tomato and cucumber salad, and the sauerkraut, add a sparky lightness to the combination of flavours, which gives this platter a slight edge.
The Verdict
Dishes are deftly executed, with a fast turnaround without compromising on an enjoyable medley of flavours. Additional salads give freshness and generous portions make these into really satisfying plates of food. The quality of ingredients, many of which have reportedly been shipped from the Middle East, is clear. It is easy to see why Shuk has quickly become a favourite spot in Borough Market, where a wider menu is also available, and is in good stead to replicate its success in Covent Garden. It is certainly worth a return visit to try the sandwiches and other dishes on offer.