A warm fire crackled in the grate of The Lanesborough Hotel’s Westminster dining room, as the team prepared to host the Brunier family in another epic wine journey.
Four wines from Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe, were to be enjoyed upon the evening, accompanied with food pairings from The Lanesborough’s Executive Chef, Shay Cooper.
Hosted by their sommelier Jules Coppier and warmly joined by Daniel Brunier, co-owner and fourth generation of this family run vineyard, the evening unfolded with a tale that stretched back over a hundred and thirty years ago.
THE POPE’S NEW CASTLE
Like the title of a late Medieval novel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is quite literally called ‘The Pope’s New Castle.’ This wine’s origin story dates back to the 14th-century Avignon popes, who built a majestic summer palace just north of the Rhône River, encouraging neighbouring vineyards to flourish around it. Their love of fine wine, shaped the region’s future and coffers, becoming one of France’s first officially recognised appellations.
Today, Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines are a tasteful mixture of grape blends, however the Grenache grape will always remain its’ ancestral grape. Sun drenched and thriving on the region’s dry winds, heat and stony plateaus, the Grenache is at the heart of this wine, indulging in notes of spice and sharp red fruits to every glass.
A FAMILY SAGA
The Brunier family’s story begins in the 1890’s, when Daniel Brunier’s great-great grandfather purchased a stretch of land on one of the region’s most iconic plateaus: La Crau. Smooth, sun-drenched stones known as galet roulés cover this land, yet it’s also known for windswept, harsh and unforgiving climates. A big risk for potential vineyards. But this challenging landscape proved to be a healthy investment for the Brunier family. The stones, absorbed the heat by day, releasing it at night and the winds toughened the Grenache vines, keeping them nourished. As time unfurled, La Crau became entwined into the Brunier identity.
The estate’s name Vieux Télégraphe translates to ‘old telegraph’ in homage to the 18th-century telegraph tower that once overlooked the property. The telegraph relayed messages from Paris to the Mediterranean. Today, the family embrace the message of transmitting messages through their wines, across time and distance.
The wine is a family collaborative process, with brothers, nephew and son, each bringing their gentle approach and experience. Daniel Brunier explained their natural process in crafting their vintages, “The less we interfere, the more the soil speaks.”
CHAPTER & VINTAGE
Each of the vintages poured and celebrated at The Lanesborough, mirrored a small chapter of the family’s history, in one glass.
Clos Roquète 2022
Paired with Roast Orkney Scallops & Curry Sabayon
It’s a rare opportunity to taste a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This vintage was a fantastic opening to the evening and a brilliant introduction to the brand. Clairette, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc all blend together, elevating the palate as it cuts through the sweetness of scallops.
Piedlong 2021
Paired with Cep Ravioli & Duck Broth
This wine was born from the rare, sandy soils of the region, thus lending a floral perfumed note on the noise. With red fruit upon the palate and light tannins, when paired with the savoury duck broth, it became a perfect winter treat.
La Crau 2020
Paired with Squab Pigeon, Celeriac, Potato & Truffle
Now we arrive at their flagship wine. With an ensemble of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre and a hint of Clairette, co-fermented in the traditional way, this deep vintage holds a quiet power. The truffle gently sprinkled upon the dish, reflected the earthiness of the wine and its’ origin.
Les Pallières Terrasse du Diable 2019
Paired with Cheese Selection
This vintage is born from the family’s estate in Gigondas, co-parented with the Lynch family. A strong, rich flavour, with dark brown tannins and a walnut taste upon the palate, this wine matched the salty, umami flavour of the cheese selection. Though this wine is a sharp contrast to the finesse of Châteauneuf, it still holds the Bruiner crest of honesty, and character.
LEGACY OF THE LAND
While people around the country gather around bonfires, The Lanesborough guests gathered around a candlelit table to enjoy a tale of family legacy, history and a journey through La Crau. Much like their telegraph tower, the Bruiner family floated sensory messages from France to Britain in just a swirl of a glass. The food, the wine and the warm company, enveloped diners into the fold, making us feel as if we were enjoying history.
Vieux Télégraphe is the true testament to a winemaker who allows the earth to speak freely from the glass.
- Words by Christina Alagaratnam
Find out more about Vieux Télégraphe here.
Find out about more events at The Lanesborough Hotel here.
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