Rating
In a word
Crowdpleaser
Cuisine
In a prime position: just metres from the dock where fish is landed in one of Cornwall’s most traditional fishing villages, a sea loving gal like me will always associate The Sharksfin with fresh fish. But that’s not to say that it’s a one trick pony. With Americana favourites like hot wings and finger lickin’ Mexicana in the form of fish tacos and quesadillas, this restaurant has hearty sized meals and something for all tastes. Front of house and co owner Mel is from the Deep South of America, and this restaurant fuses her home with that of her husband, in the Deep South West!
Appeals to
Aptly for a seaside restaurant, The Sharksfin’s front is akin to a goldfish bowl window, less than a stone’s throw from the harbour. Here almost every single person living in, or visiting, Mevagissey will have to pass the delicious smells and sight of a packed restaurant all summer long. I suspect its busy in the winter too, as we saw families ranging from tots to teens and gigglers to granddads. Particularly good for hungry people, as even with a busy restaurant, there was not a long wait.
The décor
Rustic and pared back in a stylish way, one of the things that struck me about The Sharksfin is that, rather like Nathan Outlaw’s restaurant, everything is locally sourced. It also has a distinctly nautical feel, from the ceramic fish finger plates on the doors, to the incredible chandeliers, which radiate light through handmade marine species somewhere between urchin and jellyfish. From bunting, to stained glass, and from its wooden beams to exposed walls, The Sharksfin has a very clear message and is perfectly aligned with the ‘feel’ of Mevagissey.
Naturally, the harbour facing part of the restaurant is primarily glass. Being able to look at the working fishing harbour as you sit down to eat locally landed fish definitely enhances the dining experience. Having lived and worked in Mevagissey, the ceaseless stream of tourists used to be frustrating from a navigational sense. However, sitting in The Sharksfin meant watching the world go by; tourists and all, which made me feel like I was on holiday!
The Menu
So close to the harbour, there is a focus on fish, which features on the specials board daily, as well as the main menu. Trained at Jamie’s fifteen, the head chef Ben chooses bold flavours to create a summery menu, inspired by Mel’s deep south roots.
The Starters
Being the welly wearing, sleeve rolling, crab picking pesky (tarian) I am, the handpicked local crab did not stand a chance, but yee-haa I did not expect to see such great peaks of it. Flecked with roughly chopped fresh parsley and served with delicious, buttery brown crab for spreading on thick slabs of artisan bread.
This was easily twice the size of something you’d get over in my neck of the woods. Falmouth fish restaurants command higher prices for some reason. Perhaps Mel’s American roots govern the generous portions. Sticky with a light coating of mayo, and extremely delicious and sweet, this crab had probably been scuttling in the Atlantic until the early hours of that morning, and as such it brought the salty taste of the sea.
Mum had squid rings, which were soft and melt in the mouth, with a little heat. Everything about this style of eating is relaxed, from the informal setting to the friendly staff.
Service
Striking that balance between attentive and chilled, the staff were friendly, and entertained my Mum, who likes to chatter. I worked in Mevagissey myself ten years ago, when I was saving money to go travelling. I had a funny relationship with the chef, where he seemed to inherently trust my instincts, so I was forever doling out free wine and reaping good tips, despite the slow chef. Luckily, Mel and her team have got it nailed, and the service was without fault, despite being the busiest week of the year for Mevagissey. It’s this kind of thing that matters.
The mains
Focusing on fish, since it was
Mevagissey Feast Week, I had lemon sole from the specials board. Grilled with a crisp skin, beneath, was delicate and juicy fish, doused in caper butter, which definitely added the lip smackin’ lushness to the meal. Fleshy and sweet, the dish had soul ( see what I did..?) and went well with a bold salad of rocket, piquant peppers, tomato and red onion. A nice stack of homemade fries made it irresistibly filling. So much so that I, for once, didn’t have a dessert.
Mum had delicate bass with crushed new potatoes and roasted cherry tomatoes. These pop-in-the-mouth tomatoes are a weakness of mine, these ones being no exception. A good balance of salty and sweet, the dish had stacks of character, due to its sizeable portions and classic flavours.
I NEVER leave without having dessert and am actually sorry I can’t tell you about them, as I imagine they’re delish, but I was too full, and that really is saying something!
The verdict
The food at The Sharksfin Mevagissey is good honest and excellent value food that does not have an pretensions, nor does it carry an outrageous price tag, which must explain why its packed to the rafters night after night. With some of the best views in the village, and a fun and friendly vibe, I recommend a visit if you’re in the area.
The specifics
Open daily from 10.30 til late daily.
Email: info@thesharksfin.co.uk
The Quay
Mevagissey
Cornwall
PL26 6QU
01726 842 969
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