Wine bar SESTA opens on the site of Pidgin in Hackney

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SESTA, a new wine bar and restaurant from Drew Snaith and Hannah Kowalski, is now open on Wilton Way.

SESTA takes over the site of Hackney institution Pidgin, where Snaith was previously Head Chef, and Kowalski was General Manager, breathing new life into the Hackney spot.  

SESTA is the first restaurant from Snaith and Kowalski, who first worked together at Brunswick House, then again at Pidgin, solidifying their friendship.

The duo, along with the current Pidgin back and front of house teams, including Sous Chef Ben Ing and General Manager Majalis Lundstrom Celedon, have reinvented the site as SESTA, a neighbourhood spot serving an à la carte menu championing British seasonal ingredients.

The menu showcases Snaith’s distinctive style, with modern, creative takes on British and European classics. I

t also features nods to Snaith’s time travelling in Southeast Asia with his father, and embraces his love of live fire cooking.

Sesta also pays tribute to the many restaurants Snaith and Kowalski have worked in previously, such as Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Brunswick House and Kitty Fischers, and all they learned along the way.

The à la carte menu will change according to the seasons. Much of the produce comes from Shrub, who connect restaurants with Sussex farms, for the freshest ingredients, harvested daily.

Snacks include devilled egg, wind sausage emulsion, trout roe, and chive; nduja scotched olives; beer bread, parsley pesto butter; and a Doddington cheese scone topped with Braybrooke rarebit, a recipe Drew learned from his grandmother as a child.

Starters feature braised beetroot, blackcurrant molasses, sunflower seed cream; smoked eel and lovage quiche, and parmesan soubise. 

For mains, there is cider flambee mussels, caramelised cream, lemon verbena and bottarga toast; cornish brill, hard herb pil-pil, aggressive aioli; and mutton ribs (which have been cured and smoked like bacon), with fermented garlic and thai chilli honey and coriander mustard.

The menu will also offer a large sharing cut of meat available, such as the slow grilled chicken stuffed with morteau sausage, with beer braised spinach, duck fat potatoes, liver parfait, mirabelle and tamarind chutney (for two or four), and will often showcase lesser used cuts.

Desserts feature a selection of riffs on comforting classics, such as the stone fruit pie, with stone custard and caramelised milk.

An ever-changing list of natural wines by the glass and bottle has been curated by Kowalski. 

Snaith and Kowalski have worked with General Manager Majalis Lundstrom Celedon (ex-Pidgin and Studio Frantzen), to create a cocktail list including a Mezcal Negroni, with Belsazar rose vermouth, Campari and lime; and Blackberry Juice with gin, homemade peanut syrup, lime and Thai basil oil.

SESTA will also make spirits in-house, including their blackberry Liqueur made with foraged blackberries, coriander seeds, juniper and long pepper. SESTA plans to make their own mead – with elderberry mead first on the list. 

SESTA seats 26 covers inside. The cosy, stylish interiors are deep blue with flecks of gold, and dark walnut wood table tops, with rotating art from local artists adorning the walls.

Outside, is an intimate terrace, planted with flowers and herbs, for guests to spill out onto the street.

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