Jack: Having been graciously invited to preview this year’s Spirit Of Speyside Whisky Festival (and drink my weight in a cornucopia of varied and glorious DRAMS) I’ve taken some time to write a guide that explains a little more about the festival itself.
I’ll cover:
• Why you might want to come and what’s on (in a nutshell)
• The pros and cons of doing so
• What you can do here
• How to get around
• Where to stay
• What you might expect based what it was like for me
• How much it might cost you and how you can do it more cheaply (or more expensively!)
• All the fine people you might like to go and see
Needless to say if you’re a whisky lover, know one, or are thinking of becoming one (it’s not hard) – plus you have some time and money to spare at the beginning of May, take a look at this!
What?
A festival encompassing the scotch whisky culture in almost all of its forms, and in one of its most important areas, Speyside. It’s been running since 1999.
When?
30th April – 4th May 2015
Where is it? How do I get here?
Strathspey, Scotland
By air: Inverness and Aberdeen International Airport are both close by.
By train: There are routes to Aviemore, Inverness and Elgin from Glasgow/Edinburgh. You can get to Keith/Elgin from Aberdeen.
By car: Parking charges are not a concern in central Speyside (Aberlour, Craigellachie, Rothes, Dufftown). There are car parks in Elgin, of which some charge per hour. Forres has free parking.
More info on parking: http://www.moray.gov.uk/moray_standard/page_80899.html
Why would I want to go?
Live music (The Speyside Sessions), community and camaraderie, beautiful highland surroundings and of course the chance to go right to one of the most important parts of Scotland’s whisky industry. Visit the the distilleries, try various and unusual drams and experience Speyside in all of its glory.
How much might it cost me?
As a collection of events, going to the festival itself is free. Once you’re there though, you have some choice on what you want to pay.
You can go as large or as small as you want with your budget. There are the extravagant and very exclusive events costing £50+ but you can also find free events every day where you don’t have to pay a penny. For example – some distillery tours, exhibitions, walks and talks.
Including accommodation costs, international visitors spend £197 per day on average – visitors from elsewhere in the UK spend £139.
One of the best value events on the programme is the Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival Whisky Awards Judging – £10 lets you can attend the judging and taste eight top quality malts, including selections from the 21-years and over and some distillery special editions. Also some of the host venues for the judging arrange entertainment and food.
What can I do?
- Distillery tours
- Live music
- Hill treks
- Nature
- Tutored tastings and pairings
- Chances to buy rare and unusual malts, often at excellent prices.
And lots more stuff I can’t think of!
What’s the typical turnout?
Last year there were 27,227 visits to events by local, Scottish and international visitors (though this number is a little lower than the total number of people who came). The figure has been steadily rising every year.
While there are events attracting large crowds (for example the Speyside Sessions) some events are strictly limited to just a handful of people,.
More Info
https://www.facebook.com/WhiskyFestival
http://www.spiritofspeyside.com/
@spirit_speyside
Issues
Some issues to consider in advance…
Finding Accommodation:
In general terms accommodation near the main hubs gets harder to find around the end of February. However, there are also options in towns such as Forres and Elgin and there is certainly no shortage of accommodation. Visitors can expect to pay about £80 per night at some of the larger hotels in the area, but some B&Bs will be under £40 per night.
If you’re looking to save a little more, there’s a hostel in Tomintoul called The Smugglers Hostel which is a festival member and offers accommodation to visitors from £17 pp/pn
There’s also an abundance of good quality self-catering accommodation in the area, which is a good option for groups of people travelling together.
Camping or Caravanning
Alternatively camping or caravanning is an option.
SOSWF recommend the following – great sites with even better views, and close to a lot of the action!
- http://www.glenlivetestate.co.uk/accommodation-food/camping-caravans/
- http://www.glenlivethall.org.uk/page1.php
- http://www.aberlourgardens.co.uk
- http://www.riversidecaravanparkelgin.co.uk
Getting Around:
Via bus
Bus providers Stagecoach are once again working with the Festival to connect the major towns and villages in the region, providing the number 36 Whisky Trail service. There is a subsidised taxi voucher scheme, and the Festival will be implementing, through social media, a taxi share scheme. This should allow visitors staying in the same area to link-up and share transport costs.
There are also several companies which offer a bespoke chauffeur service – details of these providers can be found on the event website.
Via taxi
The taxi vouchers will be operating again – values have to be confirmed for 2015, but previously the vouchers cost £3.50 and had a value of £5. It is quite hard to give an estimated figure as it depends on the miles travelled, but for a journey of about 30 minutes you’re looking at about £25.
Via your own transport
There is of course the option of bringing/hiring a car and arranging a designated driver for your party for each night you’re here.
Planning Your Visit / Defeating Overwhelm:
Though the providers are doing their best not to create any events that clash, there are so many events on that missing some things is inevitable. Even if you invent a teleporter (especially if you invent a teleporter) – and don’t try to clone yourself either, it’s ‘unethical’.
They don’t as yet seem to have any recommended itineraries, so you’ll want to do some advance planning to make sure that you get the most of every day you’re there.
There are some suggested itineraries on the event website, and potential visitors should also keep their eyes peeled on the events and news sections.
Using The Festival Hubs And Social Media
There are Festival hubs in Dufftown and Aberlour, and the volunteers there will have lots of information and suggestions for visitors. The Festival’s Facebook and Twitter platforms are also good sources of information, as there’s always visitor feedback to be found.
Be Ready To Pay:
Good whisky is not about cutting costs, and therefore you must prepare your mind, your bank account and your wallet for all the joys that whiskey promises. Ballpark? £139 a day for UK visitors (a conservative estimate). Oooooosh
Distillery Tours
Some of the world’s most beloved whisky comes from around Speyside. Some names you might recognise include Glenfiddich, Johnnie Walker, Glenlivit and Macallan.
Why?
Distillery tours are a staple of SOSWF. Asides from abandoning your previous life, moving to Forres and setting up your own micro-still (not as easy/cheap/practical as it should be), could there be any better way to get to know the whisky industry than actually seeing where it comes from?
You can go see where the magic happens, throw some/many/endless questions at the guys who make the magic, and then of course try a few things that you might not have had before…
Distillery tours also and often give you the chance to try incredibly rare and delicious very old whisky, and straight from the barrel.
Many distilleries will also offer favourable prices on their regular bottles, and sell ultra rare expressions onsite. Go on. You don’t really need those life savings.
Considerations
Things to bear in mind for any distillery tours you might take…
Watch that camera!
Quite often, photography inside the distillery itself will be off bounds – almost always the case when it’s in use. I was allowed to shoot a few of these places on their ‘off’ days, but if you’re keen to take a few shots inside, it’s best to check in advance if they’ll be working when you visit or not.
That said, the warehouses, areas surrounding the distillery (often quite scenic) and visitor centres are almost always OK.
Budget much more time than you think you need
As is the nature of events, these things can and often will over-run (especially once you get to tasting). If you have planned a bunch of distillery events on one day, are running a tight schedule and aren’t prepared for the…challenges of rural transport, you may be disappointed. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED
I speak from experience: we had to preview quite a few of these rushed, and although they were still great fun, they weren’t as fun as it could be
Firsthand Distillery Experience(s)
I get the chance to visit four in my short, but sweet, time here. Here’s a summary for you…
Cardhu Distillery, Knockando
What is it?
Whisky obsessives will probably know a little something about Speyside’s Cardhu, but even the most casual drinker will know of Diageo’s Johnnie Walker, of which Cardhu is a major ingredient.
As Whisky Magazine’s Christopher Coates put it – Cardhu’s Distillery Tour is a little like Johnnie Walker’s very own superior and alcoholic version of Disneyland. Think cabinets full of JW Blue, historical artefacts littered about the place, lots of memorabilia and the chance to make your own blend of whisky (something I’ve not seen anywhere else)
The Tasting(s)
Cardhu’s tasting is kinda multifaceted – you start upstairs where you taste The Johnnie Walker Black Label and some of the whiskies that go into it – arranged by taste (try to guess which is which)
You then head downstairs and are treated to the legendary Johnnie Walker Blue Label (in the perfect serve – just water and ice on the side). You can also try The Cardhu 21 – which I would like to tell you right now is a very fine thing indeed.
After/before the tasting you can tour the historic warehouses and draw out some of your whiskey. We tried two – one from a 1987 cask (a year older than me!). For me, this is always the best bit. Makes you feel like a CHAMP.
Cost?
TBC, varies between £10-30 for the ‘basic’, but can cost more for the longer, more detailed tours.
Where?
Knockando
Aberlour,
Banffshire
AB38 7RY
Glenlivit Distillery, Ballindalloch
What is it?
In a community already steeped in history, Glenlivit is particularly memorable. The distillery boasts a distinguished/not distinguished backstory of illegal distilling, whiskey smuggling and was even the first legally licensed distillery in Scotland after the Excise Act of 1823.
Our guide was a real character and I believe one of the former government inspectors tasked with making sure that Glenlivit weren’t up to anything naughty.
This distillery was very much in use when we visited it, all thunderous sound and liquid blasting through hot stills. Because of this, there’s no pictures of the inside – I was told my camera might cause ASPLOSION
The Tasting
Glenlivit’s tasting included 7 whiskeys (from the staple Glenlivit 12 to the primo Glenlivit 25 and a few unexpected numbers inbetweem). I managed to convince them to give me a dram of the Nàdurra – which coincidentally, turned out to be my favourite (thus bringing my total up to 8 – DIABOLICAL)
Here I also learnt that it’s perfectly acceptable to bring your own bottles to fill up for later enjoyment at a time better suited to drinking
Cost?
TBC, varies between £10-30 for the ‘basic’, but can cost more for the longer, more detailed tours.
Where?
The Glenlivet Distillery
Ballindalloch
Banffshire
AB37 9DB
Benromach Distillery, Forres
What is it?
One look at Benromach and their branding and you’ll quickly see that they’re an iconoclastic outlet. Nevertheless, they’ve not been around since 1898 (albeit with a little holiday from distilling) without making a damn fine dram, and you’ll probably be able to find the Benromach for you if you head down for a tasting.
Benromach are also owned by Gordon & McPhail who bring a century and a bit of experience to the whole process.
You’ll also be able to go and see/touch the distillery itself, we visited when it was inactive – but again, no photos for you guys…because again pls no ASPLOD
The Tasting
Benromach’s tasting offered us four malts to try. They seem particularly keen on whiskey and chocolate pairings (which is not something I am so keen on) – of their whiskeys I would recommend the Peat Smoke – which, being peated, has a flavour rarely found in Speyside whiskies.
Cost?
TBC, varies between £10-30 for the ‘basic’, but can cost more for the longer, more detailed tours.
Where?
Invererne Road,
Forres,
Morayshire
IV36 3EB
01309 675968
Ballindalloch Distillery, Ballindalloch
What is it?
This one lives on a traditional sporting estate of the same name that has been in the Macpherson-Grant family since 1546 (!). People come here to fire bullets at unsuspecting animals of knock golf balls around for fun. None of these things appeal to me buuuuuuut….
(you can see where this is going right?)
Exciting news comes – Ballindaloch, after a 150odd year gap, are starting to distill whisky again.
Even more exciting news: they’re way past the embryonic phases at this point, already filling up their warehouse with their first casks 😀
Sadly no tastings are available yet, and so there’s no tasting notes to share with you but I’ll endeavour to get my hands on a bottle as soon as physically possible.
Cost?
TBC, probably between £10-30 for the ‘basic’, but might cost more for the longer, more detailed tours.
Where?
Ballindalloch Castle
Ballindalloch, Banffshire AB37 9AX
01807 500205
Store Tastings
As you can imagine, the Speyside region is home to a few legendary whisky retailers with some of the most impressive offerings on this side of The Internet (apparently there’s a place that’s ‘not the internet’ but I have never been there)
And, as you can also imagine, there are few more passionate about whisky than whisky retailers – many of whom are integral to the festival’s planning. If you’re doing this thing, it’s worth dropping in on a few of them for a chat and a tasting.
Whether you’re a whisky novice or a dram destroying whisky compulsive – these guys are willing and keen to help you discover and acquire the perfect bottle for you. This they do with ‘try before buy’ and asking lots of the right questions about your tastes.
I have visited two such outlets, and shall tell you a little about them…
Gordon & MacPhail Shop, Elgin
What is it?
If you know of Gordon & MacPhail you might have seen their label on various rare private bottlings – the company also has a premises, in Elgin from where they’ve been trading since their founding way back in 1895.
The amount of whiskeys they stock is actually and thoroughly ludicrous and you may find yourself contemplating some kind of scenario in which you omit every other luxury for the next few years in favour of a single bottle of 63 year old Mortlach from their ‘Private Collection Ultra’ label.
Anyway, after a tour of the shop and some introduction G&M’s backstory G&M’s Alistair takes you to into the board room (which is also amazing), before treating you to a whiskey and cheese pairing with some rare and wonderful drams.
Cost
It cost £25.00 for pairing in 2014
Where?
58-60 South Street
Elgin
IV30 1JY
Dufftown Whiskey Shop
What is it?
Anyone who sets up a whiskey shop in Dufftown has got to know what they (and whisky) are all about. And Michael Lord (AKA @WhiskyLord – y’see what he did there?) is a man that certainly fits the bill.
The shop is a culmination of a dream – Michael quit a career in the City 8 years ago to pursue a DRAMatic career in whiskey, opening the shop, tasting everything and not looking back since! Fuckin’ legend.
I asked Mike to tell us what they’re upto this year…
Distillery tours
Our distillery tours will include Glenlivet, not least to see the replica smugglers still in action, Benromach and Glen Moray.
Tastings
We will have whisky tastings from Adelphi, Berry Bros & Rudd, Cadenheads, Douglas Laing, Gordon & MacPhail, Hunter Laing, Morrison & MacKay and Wemyss. Plus many more. Some of these will be part of our free tasting programme in the shop. Our special guest distillery for 2015 is Laphroaig which will be something very special.
Independent bottling competitions
Each year we hold a challenge for Independent Bottlers and 2015 will be no different. We invite entries from companies in 2 categories: Speyside; and Rest of Whisky. This is judged by visitors to the festival. It’s a relaxed tasting we run in the shop.
Baking competitions
We will also be having our first baking competition looking for the best whisky inspired cupcake or muffin. We will be asking people to submit their recipes from early in the New Year with the best being tried at a tasting during the festival. There will be great prizes for the best of the best baking.
As you can imagine, the shop has a comprehensive selection of whiskies – some you’ll have heard of, some you won’t. And a themed tasting with Michael is a great way to get a crash course on whatever the theme of whisky he’s going with.
Cost
Mike’s events range from free to £12.00
Where?
1 Fife Street
Dufftown
Moray AB55 4AL
Misc Tours
Speyside Cooperage, Craigellachie
What is it?
Cask making and restoration is an integral part of both the whiskey and wine ecosystems – and The Speyside Cooperage claims to be the only UK cooperage that’ll actually let you wander around (…supervised of course) and see what it’s all about.
Barrel making may initially sound a little dry (and I suppose it is, in a way, since they set fire to stuff) – it is not boring however. The process is all flames, burning wood, men hammering metal rivets, noise and smoke. Like my conception of any factory of old before they invented automation.
After being given an overview of how the process works, you can see firsthand the dystopian landscape of discarded barrels and metal, before watching the red shirted coopers charring barrels, smashing hammers into stuff and practicing a trade in a form that has not changed all that much in the last few centuries.
Cost
It was £30.00 for “The Master Cooper Tour” in 2014
Where is it
Dufftown Road,
Craigellachie,
Banffshire,
Aberlour,
Moray
AB38 9RS
01340 871108
Glenlivet Hill Trek
What is it?
The Glenlivet Hill Trek is quite something else entirely. Based in the foot hills of Blairfindy, Glenlivet, within the beautiful Cairngorms National Park. Their defacto motto seems to be “To Softly Tread Where Only Nature Has Been Before” – which is funny because riding in an argocat (an all terrain vehicle they use to get up those crazy hills) is a bit like riding in an army tank.
They offer a number of whisky related tours – some on foot, some in said argocat. Most involve having a picnic at some point in the middle. The one I went on took us to the site of the original Glenlivet distillery, and then along various trails used by whisky smugglers, back in the day when whisky was unregulated and illegal. The whole thing is a photographer’s dream.
On the main part the views are ludicrously great and I’ll never forget enjoying a wee dram of Glenlivet on the top of the mountain, rapidly losing feeling in my hands but feeling singularly and totally exalted. Top 5 whisky drinking experiences!
Cost
Various – in 2014 “The Glenlivet Smugglers Tour by Argocat” was £90.00, “The Dram Line Argocat Tour” on The Speyside Way was £120.00.
Where is it?
Blairfindy Keepers Cottage,
Glenlivet,
Ballindalloch,
Banffshire
AB37 9DJ
01807 590372
(but their tours take place all around the surrounding areas!)
Other highlights
Misc things that don’t fit with the other stuff but are worth a look in…
The Mash Tun, Aberlour
What is it?
I got to check out The Mash Tun in Broomfield Square, Aberlour. Sitting (all picturesque like) beside the river Spey – The Mash Tun feels like a hybrid of traditional pub and whisky bar – serving traditional British food, a sandwich takeaway service, and a whole load of beer.
Mark & Karen Braidwood (The Mash Tun’s owners) are pretty clued up on what’s going in the world of whisky (I guess you’d have to be) – and they also offer overnight accommodation in the form of five whisky themed rooms located above the bar.
Asides from the excellent atmosphere, of particular interest is their immense collection of Glenfarclas family casks (dating back to 1952). Feeling expansive? (or should that be ‘expensive’?) The 1952 is about £225 a dram. I have yet to try it…
Where is it?
Broomfield Square,
Aberlour,
Banffshire
AB38 9QP
01340 881771
The Drouthy Cobbler, Elgin
What is it?
Located in Elgin town centre this cafe/pub/lounge bar is one of the most popular venues for the Spirit of Speyside Sessions, which means lots of live music in their venue room upstairs (plus free wifi & coffee & 130+ single malts = legit).
Part owned by Paul Rollo (@paul) – a director of the Festival, The Drouthy Cobbler also keep to a pretty busy schedule of standup comedy and lunchtime theatre – along with the music of course. There’s also outdoor seating in the little alleyway that the venue is sequestered in. I suppose it feels a bit like a traditional pub with a few more modern, cafe shop touches. And with more/better whisky (more = bettter).
Where is it?
48 High Street,
Elgin,
Moray
IV30 1BU
Knockomie Hotel
What is it?
Having stayed at Knockomie during my time in Speyside, I would be amiss not to mention the Knockomie and its owners.
Gavin Ellis and Penny Ellis are both whisky enthusiasts and experts who’ve been running the show here since 1987. Having drunk some unusual drams with them I can also say that they’re good people and a lot of fun too. Both are quite involved with the SOSWF, having served as festival directors in the past. Penny is something of an expert – authoring a book a guide to the area – Distinguished Distilleries
In keeping with the theme, Knockomie’s bar calls itself ‘The Malt Library’. Which means an extensive and delicious selection of spirits. It’s quite obviously whisky heavy (I believe 80+ bottles onsite) and with some gins as well. There’s also some off menu spirits I don’t think I am allowed to talk about!
Knockomie was originally run as a country manor hotel (black tie and all) though it recently rebranded to an ‘Inn’ style operation – still retaining the swanky surroundings and decor of its previous more expensive incarnation. Like most places in the area, the food and drink are quite reasonably priced when compared to city restaurants.
The furnishings are quite traditional and ‘Highland’ – think a crackling fireplace, stag heads on the wall, wind roaring outside as autumn leaves fall onto the gravel driveway that leads onto the stately hotel.
Where is it?
Grantown Road, Forres, Moray IV36 2SG
01309 673146
Cost
They didn’t tell me how much a typical room costs over the festival period, but they do offer ‘Whisky Breaks‘. These are £160.00 per room p/n for a 2 nights minimum, with single occupancy is charged at £120.00 per room p/n. This also includes full Scottish breakfast, a 20cl Bottle of Benromach 10 year old (the local distillery!) and a signed copy of Penny’s book.