Rating
Appeals To
Foodies on a break from the city, anyone who loves the beach and people with a penny or two to put where their mouth is.
Cuisine
The cuisine is high end with starters at around £9-11 but if you love seafood and want a true taste of Cornwall, Zacry’s is a great place to start.
In A Word
Classy
The Location
Watergate Bay is a sandy, surf haven on the North Coast of Cornwall. Between Padstow and Newquay, and home to Jamie Oliver’s fifteen; the area is known for provenance and serving the very best food. Their swimming pool looked like a day out in itself and I think should I have hit the mojitos I could have seen myself pulling up a giant bean bag next to the pool.
The Building
Against a Gothic backdrop of limestone housing, the glassy and fresh Watergate Bay Hotel provides a stunning contrast. Gentle lights and a flat windowed terrace bar overlooking the soft sands set this hotel off as a stunning and subtle refuge.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get to review the hotel itself, being lucky enough to live close enough to drive across from the South Coast in 45 minutes. But you could tell by the type of wellies lined up in the foyer that it was good inside!
The Décor
Zacry’s has only being running in its current guise since March, and everything inside cries fresh and classy. With an open plan kitchen, and lightshades that could house a family of puffins, a small town girl such as myself could get lost inside such a place.
Hailing from Boscastle, just a few jagged headlands and an estuary round the Cornish coastline; I was brought up on fresh seafood and tourism.
Immaculately laid out with white linen and polished glasses, Zacry’s has a major rival next door, and nothing was out of place to let them be outdone. High quality silverware and glasses that mirrored the shine of the sea waited expectantly. Which is why I didn’t order red wine.
The Drinks
Prior to being seated, the Front of House took our drinks orders. He seemed a little distracted, but to be fair if I’d have had to guess who the reviewer was, I’d probably have been pretty surprised too! Anyway, his suggestion of a Gin & Tonic to get started went down well. I ordered a Hendricks with lime and cucumber, which whetted my palate.
The Bread And Butter
When I was growing up, my grandfather, who survived a bridge being blown up due to thickness of his scarf, insisted on having crusty bread with every meal. These days I don’t eat a lot of it. But when it’s been hand-baked to perfection and served with whipped butter & Cornish sea salt, it’s be rude not to.
It’s almost a course in itself and as great as it looks.
The Starters
Raised by the shore, whenever I see crab on the menu, I’m likely to order it; especially when in a seaweed salad with light yuzu sauce. Threaded with thinly peeled ribbons of cucumber, it complimented my Hendrick’s perfectly: light, well balanced and delicate.
Having lived in Tokyo for a year, I can honestly say this was some of the best Japanorama I have tasted in the actual world. With red, brown and green seaweeds supplied by the Cornish Seaweed Co, who are literally everywhere, jewelled throughout, nothing was overpowering and the dish was an excellent starter.
The ‘tache and I debated. Not quite a mass debate, you understand; just a mini one [Ed: lol]. Why did the waitress recommended the rock shrimp? I insisted it needed to go, he trusted that it was just nice. Maybe that says more about the type of restaurants I’ve worked it.
Because when his starter came, the ‘tache was deeply smug with his choice. It was the complete opposite of mine: crunchy, strong and sticky, but still delicious. Its use of Korean KP sauce reminded me of Japan, yet the tackier side.
The Mains
I am the sort of person who has a real tantrum if I get that sneaking suspicion that I should’ve ordered something different. I was torn between the hake and the plaice; opting for the former. What I naively didn’t bargain for was that the crab (I know double crab: I really do love it though, and it’s sustainable) minestrone would mean such a thin sauce. Nor that I wouldn’t get a spoon.
I am basically such an oaf, that this dish was not a good choice for me. Whilst the hake was lovely and the vegetables cooked just to perfection, I was offended by the presence of sweetcorn. No reason: it just looks the same when it’s frozen as fresh.
That said, the aioli was as good as any I had in Spain and the hake had a crunchy crust.
Luckily, I’d been a pig and ordered truffle maccharoni, which a) came with a spoon and b) was absolutely delicious. Pungent cheese and truffle notes made this a strong side dish; which the waitress had warned us about.
The ‘tache ordered the lamb with hazelnut crust, which sat on a crispy quince disc. With cavoloneroand ironbark pumpkin; it gave him the strength of Popeye. It was what Masterchef judge, Greg Wallace, would probably call a good-looking plate, but overall the dish was a little sweet.
(Which Greg would also approve of)
The Desserts
After all the lovely bread and pasta, I knew I should have ordered the poached pears, which came with honeycomb: a strong favourite of mine. It sounds healthier. But I make them at home and I just can’t not buy chocolate.
I was also taught about the double negative thing, and have decided to discredit that too. [Ed: I’m OK with this]
The fondant itself was just as it should be; and poured a deep Tanzanie chocolate across my plate when I cut into it. The plate looked the part, but also with the almond praline ice cream and crumble; it had a variety of textures and even temperatures; making it exciting. An excellent dessert.
The ‘tache decided to go for a rhubarb fool, with gingerbread crumb, and small brown sugar meringues. The rhubarb retained some acidity; enough to sharpen through the cream and the balance of ginger was perfectly measured.
The meringues, despite their diminutive discs were very crunchy with a gentle chew at the centre.
The Coffee
Like most decent places in Cornwall, Zacry’s, and the whole hotel, are proud to use a local roasters who prioritise family run, traditional growers. I mean they even blogged about it. As Dale Cooper from Twin Peaks would phrase it, it’s damn fine coffee; finishing a damn fine evening.
I’d have loved to get involved with more cocktails, but driving back to Falmouth wouldn’t permit.
The Verdict
Overall, the food was great and it was a winning location with friendly staff.
The Specifics
Open every day from 6.30-9.30
Reservations can be made online or by calling 01637 861231.
Telephone reservations are open seven days a week, 9am to 7pm.
Booking is recommended.
The Address
Zacry’s Restaurant
Watergate Bay Hotel
Watergate Bay
Cornwall
TR8 4AA
The Offer
Offering a relaxed, foodie break, the hotel currently have a Taste the Bay break, which includes three nights at the hotel, and eating out at three of Cornwall’s best restaurants: Zacry’s, The Beach Hut and Jamie’s Fifteen.
Prices start from £312 per person in a Standard House room based on two people sharing.
To make a booking, call 01637 860543 or book online.