In her quest to find the finest places to dine in Manchester, our Kelly heads to Quill for a culinary adventure she won’t forget.
Rating:
In a Word:
Theatrical
Cuisine:
Fine dining
Appeals to:
Anyone looking for fine dining in a more relaxed setting.
Atmosphere:
Quill is a venue that oozes luxury from every corner. Downstairs, the stylish, jet-black décor of the bar creates an effortless ambience and an air of mystique. Upstairs, exposed brickwork, Chesterfield-style leather seating and urban lighting give the restaurant an intriguing balance between old and new.
Having been invited to the launch night back in October, I admittedly had quite high expectations. The service got off to a shaky start, with a long wait for menus and drinks, but the team more than redeemed itself with the beautiful food that followed.
The Food:
Quill is a superb setting for a culinary adventure, with numerous paths available for diners to explore. Keep it simple with the a la carte menu, enjoy a pre-theatre treat with the early bird set menu, or settle in for a journey with the tasting menu.
Our host recommended we try the signature set menu, compiled to give you a well-rounded picture of all that Quill has to offer. How could we refuse?
The Signature Set Menu – £50 per head
Canapés
Opening the show, a trio of canapés gave us an exciting first glimpse of the creativity of the kitchen. Served in inky black bowls on a bed of black rice, a bright white shell carried a delicate serving of curried mullet, mango and lime.
A goats cheese melt with caramelised walnuts sat on a flake of tapioca, whilst a black pudding scotch egg encompassed the most delightfully gooey yolk that I’ve seen in a long time. I could easily have settled for main course sizes of all three dishes – delicious!
Amuse Bouche
Next, we were brought a long, rectangular wooden box; inside, nestled into a bed of straw, sat two eggshells. Filled with chicken liver parfait and a morello cherry puree, this surprisingly beautiful combination tasted like a savoury cheesecake.
Accompanied by freshly baked bread and a choice of lightly salted or marmite homemade butters, this magnificent course was more than just an amuse bouche.
Trout
When you think of fine dining, trout probably doesn’t spring to mind. However, this rather elegant plate was perhaps the most impressive dish of the meal, with an exciting assortment of flavours and textures.
A thick chunk of lightly chilled trout was carefully presented with cucumber gel and ash, trout tartare, edible flowers and wasabi snow, to create a dish that looked and tasted like spring.
Beetroot
As the chef informed us that our fourth course entailed ‘beetroot four ways’, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. Sure enough, this dish was just as delightful as the others, with cooked and pickled beetroot served on a bed of beetroot quinoa, with – you guessed it – beetroot crisps.
However, what really brought this distinct flavour to life was the sheep’s curd and pesto it was paired with. The mix of gooey dairy, potent beetroot and Mediterranean dressing danced on the tongue and worked up our appetite for the main course to follow.
Pork Loin
If you haven’t picked up yet, the menu at Quill is like a journey; each dish becomes gradually more complex and intriguing. So the focal point of the menu really brought together all of the skills and imagination of the chefs; pork loin and belly, on a bed of black pudding and burnt apple.
The richness of the dish was offset by the bold and sharp flavours of the burnt shallot puree (tastes a million times better than it may sound), as well as deliciously moreish pops of crackling. We had to resist licking the plates clean!
Treacle
Last but certainly not least – dessert. A tartless treacle tart may sound boggling, but this hot, gooey treat held its own alongside slithers of orange, toasted almonds, and cool ice cream in an elegant quenelle scoop.
Our dessert was brought over along with a charcoal centrepiece, onto which liquid nitrogen was poured to diffuse a pine aroma. It was an uplifting end to a meal that had certainly been an adventure!
The Drinks:
After such a diverse range of flavours, you may be wondering what to wash it all down with? Quill has an extensive wine list, an incredibly creative cocktail menu, and plenty of beers and spirits to boot.
We stuck with wine on this occasion, but from what I can recall of the launch, their cocktails are not to be missed!
The Verdict:
Quill has carved out a reputation as a trendy, innovative and upmarket spot for wining and dining, and it isn’t hard to see why. The dishes may look dainty and pretty, but after 6 courses and over 2 and a half hours, we felt absolutely stuffed.
I think you’ll agree that at £50, the signature set menu was great value for money, making it a great option if you’re looking for a culinary adventure that’s not beyond your budget.
The Details:
20-22 King Street
Manchester
M2 6AG
Tel: 0161 832 7355
Email: info@quillmcr.co.uk