When Mama Shelter’s lively Hackney Road outpost, Mama Shelter London – Shoreditch, announced it was going launch its new restaurant, Mama’s French Kitchen, we knew we would have to give it a try.
The Ambience
Mama Shelter is one of those places that just feels quite cool to be in. The interior is varied and memorable; a large central bar and open kitchen are focal points of the large, dimly lit atrium, set about with long wooden tables and booths. The wicker light fixtures and chalkboard ceilings, embellished with graffiti by graphic designer and artist Beniloys, add tropical accents. While cubby holes are filled with brightly coloured cushions, embellished Liberty prints and varied, energetic patterns. Table football and a giant in-built Twister board provide a playful break away from dinner. The Garden Bar is a highlight, adorned with countless different plants and a retractable ceiling for warm days; it is picturesque, calming and intimate – the perfect space for food or drinks with a variety of company.
The Food
Cocktails come first and, good news for locals, there is a 5pm to 7pm happy hour on weekdays offering drinks at £6. A refreshing Paloma slushy, mixed with Ocho Blanco Tequila, pink grapefruit and agave, and a Loevera – Ocho Blanco, cucumber, aloe, and peach soda – are both zesty and sippable. The views into the kitchen from the garden make anticipating food more exciting.
Lobster croquettes are hot on arrival; nicely toasted, the lobster with a firm, creamy texture which upholds well. Though, they rely on the accompanying sauce which has a salty, umami tang, to round out their flavour. Duck poutine is next, a twist on the Canadian traditional dish, but in replacing the fries, curds and gravy, it ceases to be its ancestor and becomes something else altogether. This is a behemoth of punchy, flavour. Sturdy slabs of potato, cooked to a crisp in duck fat provide a solid island for mountains of moist confit duck and grated Gruyere, in amongst a moat of thick gravy and glistening juices. It is rich and indulgent – more than enough as a standalone dish, or a snack to soak up that happy hour haze.
Mussels are fresh and succulent, bobbing in a velvety cream and punctuated by bacon and wisps of samphire, which add a medicinal depth. The sauce is a bit too salty but the sweetness of green young peas temper this, and it still makes for an enjoyable dish. Accompanying frites are perfectly crispy. Finally, the Royale is a highlight, with a juicy patty, oozing in cheese and slathered in a moreish burger sauce, which goes happily with a watermelon and feta salad.
Dessert of rum-soaked pineapple is unexpectedly enjoyable. A choice made by my companion, the fresh pineapple lends a mild sweetness, meted by a slight, caramelised char, which is in turn lifted by the creamy coconut sorbet. It is a dreamy progression of flavours in what still remains as a light dessert and a good palate cleanser against the richness of the other dishes.
The Verdict
With a design-led space, boasting areas with energy and tranquillity, Mama Shelter’s team are certainly confident when it comes to anticipating the aesthetic needs of their guests. The dinner menu has some hits, and although seasoning needs tightening on a couple of the dishes, the food is largely solid, with competent execution. With a compelling cocktail list and an interesting French-inspired lunch offer, it would certainly be worth a return visit to try more of the daytime menu – as well as more of the drinks – with which to take in Mama Shelter’s relaxed and trendy vibe.