Shekha and Jack put another London based Drake and Morgan to the test. Is the chain really as consistent as it threatens to be? Yes, looks like they’ve got this thing down to a science…
Rating
Cuisine
World Fusion / Modern European
Appeals To
Party planners, more city workers – people planning parties for city workers. Couples who might be city workers, or might not. Pub/bar crawl planners. People who ‘do brunch’ in the soft reflection of glass and concrete. Cocktail friends, fans and fiends…
In a Word
Sleek
The Ambience
On our visit, The Listing was heaving with the Christmas-party crowd. But this is the kind of place that seems busy all year around. Centrally situated a stone’s throw from Canon Street station, the venue is smart and sophisticated. It has the signature Drake and Morgan polish, with interesting furniture and light fixtures, but with a sense of anonymity that blends well into the “bar in the city” vibe, like its sisters The Allegory and The Sipping Room.
The Food
The menu is consistent throughout the Drake and Morgan venues which means a stellar cocktail list. This didn’t fail to surprise and delight; a punchy old fashioned and an Earl Grey martini were both delicious. The martini exceeded expectations – bone dry with an aromatic thrum of orange and bergamot – made it very drinkable.
We opted to start with the crab bruschetta. The sweet, nutty crab, refreshed by green herbs was pleasant enough. Also, a repeat, was the scotch egg which had the same complex smokey flavour as the one at The Allegory.
My only gripe about this one was that it was served lukewarm which congealed the runny yolk. It would been good to see it come piping hot on the plate for maximum satisfaction.
Next was a steak, with Béarnaise sauce and ‘Louisiana’ fries and a sea bass dish with braised fennel, chorizo and spinach, with a side of parmesan fries. The steak decent, with a nice char and smokey flavour. But the Louisiana fries were lukewarm and soggy as well as being slightly bland and insipid, as was the somewhat watery Béarnaise.
The sea bass was an entirely different story. A soft and supple fillet came perfectly cooked with a wonderful crispy skin, beautifully presented as a generous portion. Big meaty chunks of chorizo accompanied it, perfectly complementing the spinach and sweet, almost caramel taste of the fennel. The parmesan fries were good – in part, I believe, due to the fact I requested them well done, so were considerably hotter than their Louisiana counterparts. The rosemary and parmesan shavings were liberally sprinkled on top, but I think a more even distribution would have been achieved by mixing them together before putting in the serving pot.
My main issue with the fries was that they weren’t made to order – this really should be a given for such a basic side, especially in a place teeming with the after-work crowd looking for something to nibble with drinks. While many of the ingredients in the dishes seem very high quality, it astounded me to see big serving bowls in the kitchen, piled high with fries to be put on plates, slowly growing cold. I feel the same way about the Béarnaise which is another kitchen staple that anywhere should have perfected before serving.
The Verdict
This was a great venue to experience, with a lively atmosphere and friendly staff. It is perfect for events and parties due to its impressive interior and wide variety of food and drink. It is also in an excellent location for after-work drinks and socialising. Like all Drake and Morgan venues, the cocktails are consistent and impressive.
The food is also good, with some outstanding go-to dishes, though some of the basic elements needed refining. All in all, Drake and Morgan seemed to have gauged how to create people-pleasers well and are growing from strength to strength with their offering – deservedly so.
The food is also good, with some outstanding go-to dishes, though some of the basic elements needed refining. All in all, Drake and Morgan seemed to have gauged how to create people-pleasers well and are growing from strength to strength with their offering – deservedly so.
The Details
drakeandmorgan.co.uk/the-listing/
27 Bush Ln, London EC4R 0AA
020 3948 9820
@drakeandmorgan