A new Italian restaurant opposite Sky Garden boasts big flavours in the City.
The Ambience
Larch can be found in the Walkie Talkie building (20 Fenchurch Street), with a gift shop and café on the floor, packed full of plants and design-led nick nacks. Head upstairs and the bustling Italian concept comes to life. A scenic outdoor terrace is rich with greenery, promising to be a perfect al fresco spot in the summer. On the rainy Thursday of our visit though, a stocked bar and quietly bustling tables lend a dynamic ambience indoors. Servers are friendly and well-informed, giving us excellent wine and cocktail recommendations while we explored the menu.
The Food
Cocktails come first; Siciliano with Absolut Lemon, Italicus Liqueur, prosecco, and lemonade and Favola, a mix of Malfy Limone Gin, Italicus Liqueur and limoncello. The zesty lemon notes in both are refreshing and floral, a perfect preparation for the food to come. Pizza arrives next, the Piccante, closer to a flatbread in its shape and consistency but rich with sweet tomato and smoky n’duja.
A hefty Casear salad is a fitting accompaniment. Homemade croutons with olive oil add bite, while crispy panchetta and runny egg give even more textural variety to the umami-rich romaine lettuce. Large chunks of chicken elevate the dish from a starter to a main, ideal for sharing. Slivers of tangy Boquerones are a pleasant addition that round off every mouthful.
The highlight is a fillet of branzino, flaking off in pearly shards, sitting on a bed of lightly spiced cannellini beans which thrum with aromatic ribbons of shaved fennel. Dessert is an indulgent yet light tiramisu; creamy folds yield into an airy coffee-flavoured sponge that we could keep eating indefinitely.
The Verdict
Larch is in a great location for a diverse London crowd looking for solid Italian-inspired fare in a picturesque setting. Its proximity to Sky Garden make it an attractive option for post-work dinner or lunch for people taking in the sights. The food is deft and flavourful and generous portions mean it’s great value too. The terrace is a real draw, giving a welcome touch of nature amidst the neighbourhood’s skyscrapers. It would be worth coming back to.
The Details
Larch is located opposite the main Sky Garden entrance, above the gift shop and cafe, although guests have to book separately to visit the garden – it is worth booking this at the same time for a dramatic finale to your meal.
Sky Garden
1 Sky Garden Walk
London
EC3M 8AF