Rating
The Ambience
It is a Thursday and it is hot, so naturally, London is heaving. So too, is the restaurant, which is located a 15-minute walk away from South Kensington station. All manner of plates, small and large jostle for space on tables packed full of friends, couples, families – all excited to be out and about for the beginning of summer. Neutral decor with accents of blue gives the interior an almost Hamptons coastal vibe. The hustle and bustle means a slower start to service, but this soon picks up and drinks and dishes arrive quickly.
The Food
First to arrive are the peppercorn salted prawns. Lovers of all things crispy, these are an instant hit with the table. Not a trace of grease, a shattering batter, juicy prawns and punch from shards of garlic and red slivers of chilli; all the elements combine to make a near-perfect rendition of this classic. A highlight of a dish that is still remembered for some time after.
Next up, are the sticky pacific five-spice ribs, which are again, respectably solid. The small morsels of meat fall away in moist, syrupy, sauce-filled bites that make it impossible to eat with cutlery. The lingering flavour is a salty, sweet hoisin mouth-coating with a gentle thrum of the eponymous five-spice: rich but well balanced.
This run of success alas, does not continue with the last of the small plates. The promised ‘spicy’ scallops are anything but. In fact, they lie there sadly, somehow managing to be cold in the middle and overcooked at the same time. Their sauce, which has congealed around them like a shroud, does little to save the day with no belated punch, and any distinguishing flavour is difficult to detect. Unfortunately, this is much the same for the next couple of dishes.
Sea bass comes beautifully plated, languishing in a rich, golden sauce but alas, this is also cooked in patches. The description says it is steamed with ginger and garlic but this is barely a muted whisper. A similar issue lies with the stir-fried beef fillet and spicy black pepper sauce. The overwhelming taste is black bean, with no hint of pepper detected – and while this is perfectly pleasant – it does little to elevate a dish priced on the menu at £26.
Side dishes arrive, however, and it is showtime again. The okra is a real treat. It is caramelised with palm sugar and soy, giving a wonderfully sticky sweet and salty taste without compromising the structure of the okra, which remain delightfully crunchy. The cashews lend a savoury depth to this dish and it is eagerly and quickly finished.
The soft-shell crab salad, is as described, deliciously spicy. The crispy crab matches well with the zesty sweetness of green papaya, julienned peppers and refreshing lime. Tomatoes give juicy sumptuousness and, bolstered with mounds of lettuce, the dish makes for a refreshing palate cleanser to round off the meal. A hearty portion and the medley of harmonious flavours make this a perfect standalone lunchtime meal for solo diners.
The Verdict
A very strong start, which lagged in the middle with inconsistent execution, and then picked itself again at the end. All in all, we enjoyed Huō and would probably go back if in the area for some of the dishes. The rest of the menu is certainly worth exploring but at that price point, those mains should be perfect, even when there is high turnover.
The Details
Huō
9 Park Walk, London SW10 0AJ