Charlotte’s Place has been doing its thing (and apparently very well) in Ealing since 1984. It seemed about time that we checked it out, so our Jack heads down to see what all the fuss is about…
Rating:
Cuisine
Modern British / Modern European / Fine Dining(ish)
Appeals To:
Adventurous gastro-explorer types not intimidated by the fine dining approach to meal preparation and presentation
The ‘Ealing hardcore’, returning regulars, expat Ealing folks returning for a taste of the good stuff, food pilgrims following a good story to its source
Serious wine drinkers looking for paired dishes in far out West London, and a place to drink wine in a non serious manner…
In A Word
Charming
31 years can be a long time…
It’s a very small number of independent restaurants in London that have lasted 30+ years, which I think says something about Charlotte’s Place. You know what else says something about this place? Going there. And you should – it is worth it (if you’re willing to make the trek to Ealing).
In one form or another, Charlotte’s Place has lived in Ealing since 1984 (I believe the original owner was called Charlotte, hence the name). It was rebranded, refurbished and reopened under new ownership in 2005 and hasn’t looked back since. Located next to leafy Ealing Common, with a mostly relaxed mood set by jazz playing quietly in the background, Charlotte’s dining room looks like it was literally a dining room. In a house. Which is now a restaurant…
The Ambiance
This probably supports the impression I got, which is that the place has a ‘homely’ feel about it (providing your home is a building full of chefs and fine wines). Once described by another reviewer as ‘an old restaurant with a soul’, it feels lived in – someone else described it as ‘suffering from a little wear and tear’ (personally, I like this, as it’s not too slick at all).
It sits about 40 covers and seems to have developed a cult following in the local area over its two decades of service. People have been using the term ‘neighbourhood restaurant’ to describe it – whatever that means, isn’t every restaurant in a neighbourhood?
The Food
Anyhow, I’m not sure if the food here is officially classified as ‘fine dining’ but you could make the case that it was (if arguing about restaurant cuisines is your thing…). The food is innovative but the place doesn’t feel pretentious – portions err on the smaller size, served as many courses.
There’s lots of loving attention to detail – amuse bouches, specially paired dishes and suggestions from the chef are all part of the fun! Speaking of chefs, Head Chef Lee Cadden is the man behind the ever-changing menu (every month, I believe) and is a guy who appears to know his stuff. His background is eclectic but he seems to have cut his teeth in private dining and ‘executive dining’, working at Barclays in Canary Wharf.
Memorable dishes? The wood pigeon, which was ‘steak-esque’ (currently the best way I can summarise its taste and texture). It was also the best wood pigeon I have ever tried! Again, this came as personal recommendation from the kitchen.
Charlotte’s Place’s pricing is, on the main part, average for London, but you seem to get more value in the tasting menus. A 5 course lunch tasting menu for £30? Yup!
Drinks are reasonable I suppose/averagely priced. If you wanna nuke the budget start hitting up the stuff at the bottom of their wine list. Speaking of their wine list – it is bigger than you may have expected (Imbibe Wine List of the Year 2013) and I think was created in association with Matt Wilkin, MW.
Starters
Cornish Crab and Potato Risotto with Tarragon Vinegar
Braised Veal Cheek with Cured Foie Gras and Quince Terrine
Mains
Confit Salmon with Razor Clams and Celeriac Purée
Megrim Sole with Black Toast, Confit Yolk and New Season Leeks
Kale and Garlic Brown Butter
Desserts
Bitter Chocolate Delice with White Russian Ice Cream and Orange Sherbet
Caramelised Parsnip Tart with Ealing Honey Ice Cream
The Verdict:
All in all, Charlotte’s Place is a great example of how far British cuisine (and British restaurants) have come (and perhaps will go?). It’s a place I’d recommend to any adventurous eaters amongst you! Well done, fine people of Charlotte’s Place…
The Details:
16 St Matthew’s Rd, London W5 3JT
http://www.charlottes.co.uk/place