The restaurant at the back of the iconic Camden venue boasts amazing vibes and a delicious menu.
The Ambience
Cafe Koko is located close to Mornington Crescent station and around 10 minutes away from Camden Town. It’s around the back of legendary nightlife venue, Koko. The former theatre-turned-nightclub re-opened in April 2022 boasting a £70m refurbishment, after a fire in 2020 threatened its existence. Follow the signs from Koko to get to the restaurant lobby, where you are greeted by doormen waiting to welcome you inside.
Despite being called a café, there is a definite brasserie meets jazz bar vibe, like a venue within a venue. Split over two levels, the cosy bar has stools and armchairs facing a stage set up for live music performances. Head downstairs, and there is a sprawling restaurant, which is heaving on a Thursday evening. Tables are full of a diverse, fashionable crowd enjoying cocktails and Italian fare, while a singer provides a chilled ambience. A live pizza station is the focal point at the back, where chefs sling out wood-fired pies with a variety of toppings. Music artwork and paraphernalia cover the walls, a tribute to the acts Koko and Camden have hosted throughout the years.
The Food
The cocktail menu is short but solid, with two different types of margaritas, Tommy’s which incorporates agave for a sweeter finish, and a traditional spicy marg. Both are flavourful and punchy. Food is divided into sharing starters, with a mainly Italian focus, and progress to heartier fare such as beef rigatoni and baked chicken.
Portions are generous; we go for the baby artichokes, which arrive in a huge pile, covered in crispy breadcrumbs and bolshie pecorino. A complement to these are the Calabrian baby peppers, stuffed with anchovy and drizzled in a verdant sauce thrumming with zesty coriander, which offsets the umami flavours beautifully. A side of accompanying foccacia is pleasant, dipped in olive oil and balsamic, but leans a little on the dense side.
The pièce de résistance is a huge pizza, called No Funk No Future, lathered in smoky, spicy n’duja, taleggio and fior de latte. Added mushrooms are a little thick and watery but give a textural bite. Crust is solid and crunchy but sags and yields to the pressure of the mushrooms. The funky cheesy notes match well with the meaty sausage and the overall result is a tasty slice. The pizza is very rich, however, and we do well to share between two people. Dessert is a classic tiramisu: light savoiardi, airy mascarpone and dusky coffee go well with a house-made espresso martini. White chocolate truffles round everything off on a sweet note.
The Verdict
Cafe Koko is a great find among all the choices in Camden. Very much a neighbourhood gem, it’s easy to see how the restaurant get booked up weeks in advance. The atmosphere is buzzing, which makes it the perfect starting place for a night out, pre-gig, theatre or club. The live music is a lovely flourish, lending intimacy to an otherwise lively and playful space. Food is solid and we enjoy it enough to plan a return trip to try the other items on the menu; brunch, especially looks very appealing.
The Details
Cafe Koko is located around the corner from its big sister, Koko. Just follow the signs.
Ground Floor
74 Crowndale Rd
London
NW1 1TP