Rating
Cuisine
Modern British
Appeals To
Food adventurers, gourmands and sensual humans tempted by edible things (probably) seen nowhere before. From ‘(mostly) recognisable’ to ‘what the fuck did they just serve me’ – Parlour delivers – and how!
People with a sense of humour that moves towards the theatrical and the slightly risqué. Spirit & liqueur enthusiasts and the kind of people who like to drink spirits distilled out of cherries and artichokes.
People psyching themselves up for Parlour’s ‘Chef’s Table’. PREPARE YOUR BODY.
In A Word
Excitement
Parlour Games
I was excited about returning to Kensal’s Parlour. A year and a bit back we visited The Chef’s Table which was without a doubt one of the most theatrical and memorable dining experiences I’ve ever enjoyed. It’s probably one of those things I’ll still be talking about 10 years from now, provided the whisky hasn’t got me before then.
To recap: Parlour is the brainchild of Jessie Dunford Wood, who is roughly 60% chef, 20% mad scientist, and 20% method actor playing Willie Wonka or some kind of mythical hero who specialises in avand garde reinterpretations of modern European staples.
Larger than life and inhabiting the site of what looks like a former pub, Parlour’s food offerings are anything but ‘pub grub’. On the outside, Parlour is still noticeably a pub, but now fully installed with their own little touches.
I guess you could say the decor is both naughty and nautical. Naughtycal? And arty I guess. Naughtartycal? *stops trying to invent words*
It’s kinda split between a pub style bar area (by the entrance) and then the restaurant section (near to where the chef’s table is located).
There’s also an outdoor terrace, which was stubbornly still being used (despite winter – fuck you winter) by at least two Aussies, who were talking about property prices in London and how fudged up the whole situation is. I wonder if it’s anything as bad in Melbourne or Adelaide.
I am also told not to take any pictures until the candles are relit. I oblige – appreciating this fine attention to detail.
This time around Parlour’s co-owner Andy (a very nice man – the kind of man you could introduce to your Mum legit) sat down with us and gave us some insight into the workings of Dunford Wood’s temple to edible eccentricity. I even took some notes!
Inbetween swapping anecdotes about ‘non food type stuff’ (e.g. the hazardous reality of being a contract copywriter), what I got from Andy is that the recurring theme at Parlour is ‘education’. Though they boast a loyal, bar/pub style clientele, they take pride in using ingredients and making foods that Joe Public has quite likely never tried.
Hell, they introduced me to two foods I had never heard of, and I’m supposed to know about this stuff (I think?). I’ll go into these a little later.
These guys also take the idea of menu changes / seasonality to new extremes. We’re told that the menu changes weekly and is painstakingly reprinted every time this happens.
The Food
Parlour’s food is usually (but not always) recognisable. For example, the chestnut humus was apparently an accident. I suppose it’s a kind of modified ‘modern European’ style, attacked with Jesse’s singular approach. Prices and portion sizes are on the main part, pretty reasonable for London.
Jesse’s signature dishes – such as the kyiv, popcorn chicken, and Cow Pie, remain consistent, and you can opt for also opt for a set menu of 3 courses @ £20 per head.
We opted to a bar menu style dinner, with lots of starters/smaller dishes instead of mains, And bar drinks instead of the standard bottle of wine etc. Which means more of less, but none the lesser for it. *scratches head*
The following items were metabolised with JOY:
Blue Cheese ‘Custard’ with Lots of Bits to Dip
My tasting notes for this read capitalised as: ‘EVERYTHING’S GOTTA GO IN THE CHEESE DIP’. Well, almost everything. I have no idea what most of it is. You can definitely taste the blue cheese, but not the custard. Maybe he only meant custard based on its texture? (it sure looks like custard). Or maybe I am wrong.
The accompanying salad contains some vegetables that I don’t recognise, such as ‘Crone’. Isn’t crone an old English word for an unpleasant old woman? The blue cheese gives me a blocked nose that I try to clear with two kinds of whisky (that’s the lactose intolerance, or something)
Chestnut Hummus with Rosemary Pitta Bread
Parlour’s chestnut huimmus is simultaneously ‘chestnutty’ and buttery. Apparently this flavour combination CAN exist. Greta devours ALL the hummus, maxing out on the first two courses so that I end up with the rest of the meal pretty much to myself.
Raw Vegetable ‘Ravioli’ with Goats’ Cheese
Like normal ravioli but harder on the digestion and better on your health markers. It is laced with little sweet pieces of I’m not sure what, along with very potent tasting goat’s cheese. To look at it – it is a work of art, non?
The goat’s cheese is hidden under all the edible flowers and veggies. Like floral cheese camoflague. Camo cheese.
The Drink
And what kind of bar review would be complete without some kind of miniature, overly enthusiastic, drink themed diatribe? I dunno, but not this one.
Parlour, like many places, has come up with a few of its own takes/alterations of some popular recipes. These include the Pumpkin Colada (see below) and the Figgy Pop (which is like a mint julep, also see below). The wine menu is about average in size, not massively comprehensive, but curated by the guy from a local wine supplier (can’t actually remember which one). I didn’t see any personal favourites on there, and it’s all relatively economical – nothing over £55!
There’s also a fair few rarer craft beers (Parlour have their own Lager?) and spirits that I had never seen before.
Pumpkin Colada
Along with the pumpkin, this one uses coconut milk. in Parlour’s style, turning a traditional summer cocktail into something more wintry.
Like any Pina Colada derivative it is both rich and sweet, like liquidising some kind of coconut dessert in a high power blender and then drinking it. Though obviously much more…artful, tasteful and subtle than this. Maybe I should just discard that simile…
Figgy Pop
This one possesses a slightly minty aftertaste that takes about 3 seconds to kick in. I eat the fig – which has absorbed some alcohol. Not hugely keen on this one, but it’s not overwhelmingly sweet either, which is good. I have an anti sweet tooth. It’s like antigravity but with less theoretical evidence.
The Verdict
I can honestly tell you that I’m sad that Parlour is so far away from where I live.
🙁 <- my feelings
Having done both the chef’s table and the bar now, I can say it’s equally and amply suited to a fullscale food coma OR just dropping in for a few drinks and a small meal to share (though I would recommend going for the whole dinner experience). Parlour’s playful atmosphere and mostly-unconventional selection of food and drink is quite unlike anywhere else you might end up in, and the Chef’s Table is an adventure that every foodie with some money to spend should make the most of.
The Details
5 Regent St,
London
NW10 5LG
020 8969 2184
http://www.parlourkensal.com/