Straight Outta Languedoc
French wine co-operative, Les Vignobles Foncalieu call themselves ‘the upmarket cooperative’ and if the two wines they sent me are anything to go with, they seem to be right on the money (and it is quite a lot of money!). The coop consists of 1,200 winemakers, about 7000 hectares of vines and a number of cooperative cellars around the region.
They’re one of the largest cooperatives in the Languedoc – headquartered in Azens, in the Aude. I have never been to any of these places (yet) but have a rough idea of what the soil tastes like after a few years slamming French vino.
Founded in 1967, Foncalieu later became a ‘Union of Cooperatives’ in 1992. For a bit of historical perspective, the first cooperative in France was formed in Alsace in 1895 (when it was still part of Germany… thanks Wikipedia!)
These two wines are part of L’Atelier Prestige (originally established in 2008) – and are part of Foncalieu’s ‘Grands Vins’ collection. The site also has them listed as part of ‘Les Icônes’ – which Foncaleu refer to as ‘their most exceptional wines’. There are two other wines in the series – ‘Le Lien’ and ‘Les Illustres’, neither of which I have tried…but never say never, right…?
I am also told that both of these have a 10 year cellaring potential (mine is NOT going to last that long…I don’t even have a cellar!). Plus I would be 37 when I finally drunk it (assuming I lasted that long). And I can’t even CONCEIVE of that. Wat.
Wine #1 – L’Atelier Prestige range – L’Apogée
You are looking at one of only 3400 bottles of L’Apogée made, coming out of Saint Chinian. Grown at 180 meters, I think I have an idea of where they get the name from. It’s 85% Syrah and 15% Grenache Noir, about £25 retail, and was brought into this world in large part due to the efforts of Michel Cazevieille and Sébastien Roubichou. Again, I have no met these men but I assume that they probably know some serious shit about Syrah.
Rating
Price
£25
In A Nutshell
Perhaps too subtle for its own good.
Not Aerated:
Nose
First impression is of a HUGE and delicious whack of Madagascan(?) vanilla. Sugar and baked things, apple pie or battenberg cake. Could sit here smelling this thing all day – this really is an amazing aroma. There’s some berries and black fruit somewhat subsumed to vanilla. It will eventually open up to a slightly sour, black pepper note which doesn’t entirely balance with the vanilla bouquet
Palette
Initial impression is light and velvety – with some blackberries and slightly meaty tannins sitting on your mid-palette. It is slightly, ever so slightly, spicy. In order: first you get the (moderate) berries and black pepper. Then comes ‘dem (slightly) meaty tannins. And then it tails off pretty speedily to the finish.
Finish
Is faster than I’d like it to be (but it still stains your teeth something fierce!). The sweetness/Vanilla doesn’t really stick around, you instead experience more black pepper (but not at the searingly spicy level of some other wines you might have enjoyed in the past)
Aerated:
It improves with aeration via a WineWeaver.
Nose
More exaggerated vanilla hugeness. Those tannins still sabotage things with a slightly off/sour note.
Palette
Slightly more pronounced – a little more berries and black fruit, but it’s still not particularly sweet. It retains the tasty and aforementioned ‘semi-pseudo-meaty-tannins’ in the mid-palette.
Finish
A hint of berries and vanilla – there are more lingering sultanas but it’s still much too short for my liking!
Overall Verdict
Legendary nose (‘should I say mythological nose’?). Subtle and lighter bodied than you’d expect based on the aroma. Not as ‘punchy’ and memorable as I would have hoped at this price point.
You should definitely give this one some oxygen (I went for aeration but other ways will probably work – hand whisks anyone?)
Wine #2 – L’Atelier Prestige Range – La Lumiere
You are looking at one of only 2,500 La Lumiere bottles produced. It’s 70% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre and has been aged for about 12 months in French oak barrels (in this case being 80% new oak…JUST HOW WE LIKE IT).
The wine is apparently the brainchild of Gilles Ferrand, Fabrice Oliver and Marceau Lacombe. I have never heard of these guys, and they have never heard of me – but I assume we all love wine so we’d probably get along just fine if we were ever to meet.
Rating
Price
£25
In A Nutshell
Delicious with a weirdly ‘challenging’ finish.
Not aerated:
Nose
First impression is also of an incredibly pleasing aroma which promises plenty of sweetness. Maybe plums stewed in something sugary, plus some vanilla (though less). Plus a slight coppery(?) tannic note cutting through it all.
Palette
First impression: a herbaceous note that combines with the dryness for a dry herbal taste that isn’t quite turmeric but is perhaps going that way. Reminds me a little of juniper berries (but not of drinking gin!). Woody in that French style.
More tannic than you might expect from the nose. These are very dry tannins – but dry and creamy. A strange semi contradictory combination which is new to me. I really like it. It is in no way sweet, though it is a little peppery.
Finish
Quite long – that dry spice and a little bit of vanilla. Sits on the back of your throat – sugar plum turning a little more sour over a prolonged period of time. VERY NAICE!
Aerated:
Aeration with a WineWeaver yields tangible, yet marginal results.
Nose
This brings out the nose to an almost ‘chemical’ level (so, STRONG…but in a good way)
Palette
Smoother, and a little less dry. Doesn’t seem to accentuate the other notes – maybe a little more raisin-like (which is possibly a psychosomatic realisation – not too sure about that)
Finish
A little (not a lot) more vanilla, sweetness and raisins on the end. It’s still got that dry herbaceous thing, but perhaps a little more tempered now. I like this finish quite a lot – I think it ‘makes’ the wine.
Overall Verdict:
Powerfully woody, herbaceous and dry. Long finish with a medium body. Not one of my favourites, and in terms of value for money – a little above my price point, but one I enjoyed all the same. The finish lingers and satisfies – probably the best bit.
Truly a potent wine for potent occasions.