Where rotisserie chicken reigns supreme, this stylish newcomer offers a confident blend of French technique and Levantine soul, wrapped up in warm lighting, modern design, and heady hits of garlic and spice.
The Ambience
With rotisserie chickens turning golden behind the dining counter, the theatre of TOUM starts as soon as you step inside. Designed by Gundry Ducker, the restaurant manages to feel both elegant and inviting—burgundy walls, soft yellow counters, and geometric glass lights give it a glow that leans more Beirut bistro than buttoned-up Mayfair. The bustle of nearby Oxford Street feels miles away thanks to the tranquil, pedestrianised entrance on Pollen Street. You can perch at the counter and watch the birds spin, or sit out on the heated terrace, which offers that ever-tempting café trottoir vibe year-round.
The Food
At TOUM, the rotisserie chicken is the main event. Plump, golden, and crackling with anticipation as it turns slowly in the Rotisol oven, it arrives bronzed and glistening, the skin deeply seasoned, taut and shattering, encasing meat that is juicy, tender, and perfumed with herbs. This is chicken that has been brined, air-dried, and roasted to a precise rhythm – and it shows. A quarter portion paired with their ethereal fries (so skinny they could pass for crisps, yet gloriously fluffy inside) makes an ideal lunch; with a half or whole bird, you’re in true feasting territory. The toum itself, a whipped garlic emulsion, is punchy, creamy, and addictive, though the spicy chimichurri and Café de Paris butter also warrant attention.
Small plates punctuate the meal with smart execution. The roast octopus, cooked to a perfect spring, is bathed in a smoky-sweet red pepper sauce with just enough acidity to lift its richness. Sambousek are a particular joy: golden and blistered on the outside, stuffed with a spiced mince of beef and lamb that’s boldly savoury but lifted with cool mint and warming cinnamon. There’s a moreish balance at play, comforting yet bright. The dish of bottarga pieces in green dressing is more curious: the salty-sweet roe offers a delicious briny pop that may divide opinions, but it’s an adventurous mouthful that earns its place.
Drinks are equally considered. A standout cocktail tastes like a tricolore salad reimagined in liquid form. Think ripe tomato umami, basil sweetness, lips glistening with olive oil, and a finishing dust of perfumed black pepper. It sounds bizarre but it lands as one of the most memorable aperitifs we’ve tried lately.
The Verdict
TOUM takes a humble dish—rotisserie chicken—and builds a confident, contemporary restaurant around it. The food is precise, exciting, and every plate seems to tell part of the story of Lebanon, as filtered through the lens of Paris. With its stylish interiors, hospitable service, and food that exceeds expectations dish after dish, TOUM is far more than a one-trick chicken spot. It’s a place to return to again and again.
The Details
Address: 4 Pollen Street, Mayfair, London W1S 1ND
Phone: 020 3289 8880
Website: toumrestaurant.com
Opening Hours: Mon–Sat lunch and dinner
Outdoor Seating: Yes, heated terrace
Encore Listening Bar: Opening soon downstairs
Age Restrictions: None listed; call ahead for bar access info