Review – Indian Summer [Brighton]

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Rating

star-rating-3

Appeals To:

  • Curry non purists and food fusioneers with an Asian persuasion
  • The ‘regular’ British diner (if such a person exists?) – curry at one point was ranked as the nation’s favourite takeaway and is still very popular. This is a particularly easy way to experience it (no burnt tastebuds here!)
  • Indian expats/families/ looking for something a little different, but not too different
  • People who like Southern Indian cuisine.
  • People who either don’t use cutlery or eat their cutlery. In a good way.
Indian Summer Brighton - Interior shot
Oh I do like to be besides the seaside…

Alas, no particularly fun stories of showing up roaring drunk, getting completely lost, or offending anyone specific to tell you. But I certainly hope this doesn’t deter you from delving into what was a pretty delicious and slightly unexpected Brightonian dining experience.

(mostly) Indian Summer

Brighton’s Indian Summer doesn’t bill itself as a ‘regular’ curryhouse, and after eating there, you can kinda see why. Located on East Street, right by the picturesque seafront, it’s kinda secluded away on quiet side road, though within a stone’s throw of the hustle and bustle that is inner Brighton. Not only is this convenient but sea air is good for you. True story.

Back to why you might wanna head down and have your own Indian Summer.

The Ambiance

The restaurant’s well thought out interior definitely has a bit more of an upmarket feel than your average Indian and yeah, it’s not as authentically Indian feeling as some of the others I’ve tried (I don’t claim to be a curry expert, BTW). I suppose the entire experience could be described as a kind of English/Indian fusion (which, inherently is what curry is)  though slanted more towards the Anglo tastebuds. This isn’t a bad thing at all, just a feature.

Oil candle at Indian Summer, Brighton
The décor was reserved and kinda very not Indian at all

That said, we did see an Indian guy eating there who our very helpful and super knowledgeable hostess, Christabel, described was eating a traditional Indian dish from Gujarat (I think it was a Vegetarian Thali).

He seemed happily distracted by his dinner and pleased with what he was getting, evidence that the menu is stocked with some more traditional Indian favourites, despite the more European surroundings. 

Indian man eating Indian food in Indian restaurant = quality assurance
Indian man eating Indian food in Indian restaurant = quality assurance

You really see their European approach in the dessert selection, which is on the whole, not very Indian at all (no post dinner Lassi or Mitha Dahi0 to be seen). But what they lack in ‘Indianness’, they make up in ingenuity (edible cutlery coming up…)

The Drink

We picked a bottle of Sula Sauvignon, which is white wine from India. As far as I know I’ve never tried Indian wine (I didn’t know it was a thing, though logically I can’t see why it shouldn’t be). I have no complaints, it did the job just fine as a versatile table wine should, despite the variety of flavours that were thrown at it

We later opted for the Berton Vineyard Reserve Botrytis Semillon. Gotta love an alcohol that sounds like a mid 90s death metal band (Botrytis that is…). We picked it solely on it’s name and Wikipedia description (death fungus dessert wine? OK). It was like Sauternes, but better. Nobody was maimed during consumption, though it was surprisingly relaxing.

So, you probably want to stare at pictures of food now. I aim to please.

The Food

Again, I’m talking less and using pictures more. A picture paints a thousand words and all that…

Starters

Nawabi Murgh: 

Pretty damn good, I guess in my somewhat novice mind it reminded me of a Chicken Korma (I can hear you groaning) – mild, slightly sweet and rather creamy. So delicious in fact that the portion of chicken could have been much more generous (just sayin’)

You can see that it was great but also tragically tiny.
more pls

Mains:

Rajasthani Laal Maas: 

Not as spicy as I expected (actually not spicy at all). Lamb’s probably my favourite meat, though this one I must admit wasn’t that memorable. I guess I would have preferred it with less sauce and uh…more lamb,  perhaps skewered? This is because in my mind, if you’re promising meat you better deliver. Like some kind of meat delivery service (fun fact: these exist)

Indian Summer - Rajasthani Laal Maas
more pls

Tuna Pach Phoran:

The +1 ordered herself this one, which was a very good idea. It had an almost Japanese kind of preparation and feel to it, though with much more cumin than our Far Eastern friends would use, and cooked a little more than your regular Sashimi. The sesame seeds added a kind of crusty outer layer that contrasted with the tuna quite well. Very ‘clean’ taste and mouth feel.

Indian Summer, Brighton - Tuna Pach Phoran
more pls

Desserts

OK, so as I keep saying, I’m not a huge dessert guy but desserts are where Indian Summer shines…

Crème Brûlée:

Creme Brûlée at Indian Summer
And, as you can see I should have probably brought a flashgun…

 Like most humans in the western world, I’ve eaten the odd crème brûlée. Over the years this adds up, naturally. Over my lifetime’s consumption of said crème brûlée, this one is without a doubt the best I’ve eaten.

I cannot describe exactly why, I can just say that the alchemy of food has done it’s thing here and I bow down to the Gods of dinner for blessing this establishment with possibly the finest burnt cream in the land. Thankyou!

Espresso Cheesecake with Amaretto Crumb: 

It does make for a bloody good picture though
It does make for a bloody good picture though

Holy Goddamn whathefuck – this is a memorable thing amongst memorable things – edible cutlery. And, within each milk chocolate cup there was an interior made of coffee. Sacre bleu!

The presentation was pure artwork, which is nice for a few seconds but inevitably means nothing because seriously, what stands in the way of you and cutlery that’s made of chocolate and full of coffee cream?

Nothing does. Destruction is inevitable.

The Verdict:

Not one of the best curries I’ve had, though redemption surely comes in the form of it’s wonderful location, strangely versatile drinks selection, super knowledgeable staff (cheers for the advice, Christabel) and of course, the desserts.

If the opportunity presented itself, I’d go again, opting for the Alleppey Prawn Moilee next time around…

The Details:

http://www.indian-summer.org.uk

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Indian-Summer/136634546372295

P 01273 711 001

A 69 East St, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1HQ  

Indian Summer Brighton Shopfront
Byebye
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